seacraft scupper question

[Scott]

Bigshrimpin

Gaulois - the 235 is light (400lbs). It's weighs quite a bit less than most 150's made today.

Gaulois

I agree, I cant imagine that the 235 -a V6-is less heavy than V4's.

235 in NADA

As Bigshrimpin mentioned
The 235’s run from 395 to about 410 Lbs. As compared to a lot of the engines today in the 150 hp range … that’s about 50-75 lbs lighter !!!

The E-tecs, if memory serves me , range around 370 Lbs for a 130 to somewhere around 420Lbs for the 150/175 and are heavier on your wallet from what I recall. So weight wise you’ll be about the same.

The Johnson is also around 420 ...I think
I pretty sure cSick has the 140 but in the black version ...but then again he also has the pool noodle thing going for him [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

The deck drain to the bilge now ??

[gaulois]

Many people have asked the (very important) question: "does the deck drain into the bilge. Yes, the idiot who did this, and who is hopefully not a memeber of our gang, drilled a quarter inch hole in the rear center of the deck. Needless to say, drainage is slow, and the slightest debris plug it up. I will probably pull the silicone out of the scuppers, and (which I did on one side) since this mysterioius grandchild removed the scupper housing, the water can flow freely into the bildge.
When I get back to Miami in December here is what I plan on doing: 1. get new batteries. 2. Remove any non essential wiring that could drain my bateries if there is a short. 3. Get a new bildge pump and new wires switches etc. THEN drop the boat in and see what happens- how low it is, how it handles with the 2thirsty5. I would be able to see if the engine is too heavy.
Question. If I find I can put scuppers back, and since the mysterious grandson filled the hull outlets with marinetex, what would you guys suggest I do to restore the whole scupper system?

[ScottM]

So based on Scott's post, it stands to reason that the current 235 has a better hp to weight ratio than a new engine, even though the 235 is rated at the powerhead.

235 (est. 200 @ prop), 200/410 = .5 hp/lb
150 E-Tec, 150/420 = .35 hp/lb

Granted, the 235 is thirstier than the E-Tec, but I wonder if you're getting more power/performance out of the old 'Rude assuming it's running tip top?

[gaulois]

Hey Scott,
I like your ratio comparison. Why would 235s be light compared with Etecs? Aluminum blocks?
Otherwise, you have a Seafari. Are you happy with it? From what I have seen so far in my boat it has the potential to be a great versitile boat.

[ScottM]

Otherwise, you have a Seafari. Are you happy with it? From what I have seen so far in my boat it has the potential to be a great versitile boat.

It's a 23 Sceptre. Very happy with it after 8 seasons. The only drawback is manueverability around the boat when fishing due to the cuddy, but otherwise it's been a great boat. It belongs to my father and he couldn't be happier.

[Bigshrimpin]

gaulois - The original scuppers go down through the floor into a block of wood that is glassed to the hull and out the bottom of the boat. What you might find when/if you remove the marinetex patches is that the wood blocks may have deteriorated to the point where water leaks into the hull around the thru hull scuppers. Assuming that the previous owners weren't totally "coo-coo" . . . the marinetex/silicon fix might have just done the trick.

[oldbluesplayer]

G -

a bunch of thoughts - the original design scuppers go straight out the bottom, as mentioned above, from the deck, down thru the hull. On the bottom of the hull, just in front of the scupper discharge holes, there should be a small wedge block, which deflects the water running over the scupper hole, and results in basically a venturi effect, pulling water down thru the scupper, when the boat is running. Restoring the scupper holes, without those wedge blocks in place, will most likely result in a Non functioning scupper, in fact, water may shoot Up the scupper!!

The scuppers run down thru a glassed in wood block, and are lined with a brass tube - these are like 7 - 8 inches long, I have seen previous posts suggesting that they may be available from Boston Whaler dealers, if they need to be replaced.

On the engine, the good thing is that you are already up to a 25" transom, in my opinion, after running mine for awhile, and from various comments I've seen in here, is that a V4 130 - 140 would be just right, for economical and good performance, unless you're gonna have a boat full of people and be towing water toys around. I'm just a cruiser and fisherman, like to go out for a day and do some pretty good running around, as I've said, the V4-115 gets me to 30, and I often find I can't do that in the open sea anyway, but it sure is economical - 8 hours worth of non stop running, and trolling, and run and gun on surfacing fish, and only burned half of my 47 gallon tank.

On the previous owner drilling a small hole in the deck, to replace the scuppers, draining down into the bilge - lousy idea, but understandable, as you will find, in the forward well area, where you step down to go into the cabin, in the two back corners, are small, 1/2" holes to drain this area, and they also drain into the bilge, so he was just copying what the boat original design already had in place. Mine has a 1500 gph bilge pump on a float switch - don't know if that's original design or what - this topic really depends on your intended use - I only day boat, keeping it on a trailer, with plans for the occasional overnight in the water - I think if you plan on putting it in and keeping it in the water for the season, then you will need to figure out how to deal with getting rid of accumulated rain water, which is a problem area that, from reading many posts, I get a sense is why some Sea Crafts have sunk.

Well, enough rambling for now - best wishes on the move down from Maine.

Bill

[gaulois]

Hey Bill/Old Blues,
Thanks for the info- you nailed it with the venturi effect.
For some reason I thought it was "bernoulli". I dont know if I mentioned that when I had my 23CC repainted the guy altered the "venturi" effect, and water did shoot up one of the scuppers. It looked like a rooster tail from a distance, but if one looked closer one would see the rooster tail coming from inside the boat. I used to get pissed and always grumble that "dude screwed up my venturi" Thanks also for the info on the 115. Also, yes the guy did bascially use the 1/2 inch hole idea from the cuddy step. The info all of you gave me about the actual construction of the scuppers really helps with how Ill deal with it. One of the reasons Im so obsessed is that I remember with the 23CC I did not seal the cover over the rear tank/battery area. so water would seep in and I had to depend on the bilge pump. While camping in the Dry Tortugas with the boat anchored in front of the camp sites there were several downpoors. I mean serious downpours, to the point that I swam out to the boat a few times to make sure that the auto bilge was working properly. After that I sealed the cover, and all the water would drain out the scuppers, and I could sleep in peace...
Having said that- now I have a Seafari .. So I will not have to swim out to where I am anchored!
lots a thinkin to do. Its frustrating being here and not where my boat is so I can spend hours staring at the bilge.

I feel guilty also- Im getting married at the end of November, and all I can think about is my scupper problem, and my fiancee thinks about wedding bands God bless her.
I am a shameless SeaCraft owner.