Knocking Down Orange Peel

[thedink9]

I tried the wet sanding approach yesterday and I was not very happy with the results. Too much rubbing for too little results.

So I will try the sanding approach!

I do not have any dye. Can you tell me where I can get some and how do you apply? With a small brush? From what you posted, I was assuming I brushed it on and then sanded it off. Also, where can I get 320 grit paper , hook and loop for my 6" porter cable sander? I couldn't find it at the local Lowes or Home depot. They only had up to 220.

[Trayder]

Dink-

I am sorry the wet-sanding did not work.

There is a ton of mis-information in this thread. I strive to keep the info on Classicseacraft.com factual from experience but many people read something on a web-site and then regurgitate the info when they see someone requesting similar info. I see it all the time and shake my head.

The Mako boy's method is dead nuts on when it comes to refinishing oxidized gel-coat.

Unfortunatly, as you now know there is no way you will efficiently cutlarge areas of orange peel from newly applied gel coat with 400 grit wet/dry.

To answer your questions:

Dykem is a cutting dye used by machine shops and places that cut sheet metal. You can buy it at industrial material shops, one place I know that has it in stock is Aquidneck fasteners in Tiverton RI. I have a full bottle in my shop and am happy to let you use it, PM your address and I will get it up to you.

You apply the dykem with a rag, much like applying stain on wood. saturate the rag and wipe on the are you plan on finishing. put it on thin and test it in a small area.

let it dry for a few minutes and then with the sander on 1 or 2 hit the area until the dykem goes away thus leveling the highs/lows, immeadiatly move on once the dykem is gone. It is imperative you keep the D/A flat to the surface you are re-finishing.

You can pick up Mirka brand (my favorite) hook and loop sanding sheets at Burns Power Tools in Fall River Mass. Try not to speand too much time at Burns or you will quickly deplete ant budget you had left for the boat (the place is power tool Mecca)

After you have leveled your area start with 400 wet and dry and work you way up.

A few notes

1: you may need a thicker base of gel-coat, one rolled on layer may very well break through

2: Since I know you used Signature finish on the other areas of you boat you can always fall back on that to refinish this area if your gel is too thin.

3: To all other folks out there (and you know who you are as we exchanged unpleasant PM's) please do not post your methods unless you have actually done them.

[ob1jeeper]

dink,
I too am sorry the wetsanding with 400, followed by lots of elbow grease with rubbing/polishing compound is more work than you had hoped for.

I'm the "know-nothing" that Trayder is referring to as having ZERO experience. [img]/images/graemlins/blush.gif[/img] [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

No more posting or responding to folks here is NO problem at all...

It's a shame for your members, you don't believe opinions and experiences other than your own, may have some validity. [img]/images/graemlins/shocked.gif[/img] [img]/images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img] [img]/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]

PS: Quite the contrary to what you saw as unpleasant PM exchanges, I thought they were pretty informative [img]/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img] You simply chose to dislike the answers [img]/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]

[Ed]

I am bowing out of this conversation and have decide to refrain from offering future advice.

Dink, good luck with your project.

[Finster]

Yikes! Talk about a bunch of Mary's getting their panties in a wad....Jeeze. [img]/images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img]

Dink, I've worked on more boats than I care to remember and I have to say Trayder hit the nail on the head. That's a aw-full large area to cover by wet sanding. Though very effective for small area's.

There are countless boating websites that deal in nothing but read knowledge/opinion. We try to keep the integrity of this site high and there for peoples feelings get hurt from time to time. But if you want the no BS skinny you've come to the right place. [img]/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]

[Capt Chuck]

It's a shame for your members, you don't believe opinions and experiences other than your own, may have some validity.
PS: Quite the contrary to what you saw as unpleasant PM exchanges, I thought they were pretty informative You simply chose to dislike the answers

OB1jeeper

I have posted many times as a novice SeaCraft owner for over 25 years, hoping the knowledge I have gained would benefit others. If I'm wrong,then I'm wrong, so be it!. I take it in stride. That's what forums are for to exchange ideas not turn them into a court battle... however, your post is OUT-OF-LINE! Remarks or comments made within a PM should not be posted.
PM means PRIVATE.....

As one of the SeaCraft Forum Moderators I ask you to keep personal feelings under wraps [img]/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]

[FELLOW-SHIP]

My technique is Much Easier than all stated above. After I had some one else roll the bottom of my hull with gel coat for me. Then I started using my boat again and think about all the time and work it would take to sand the bottom of my hull which I personally HATE working above my head, then the rubbing compound and waxing process. I Learned To Like It Just The Way It Is with the orange peel, plus if I get any nicks or damage I just need to pull out the roller and go over those arrears again.

FellowShip

_______________________________________________

My motto: Just for the Grins [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

[thedink9]

Ken

I totally understand your comment about leaving it alone. Afterall I've lived with it for a year and other than the fact that the low areas hold dirt and stains, I wouldn't be thinking of making it better. I'm now thinking that if I do a lousy sanding job , I could always call Tom at Fabulon and pick up some more Signature finish. Rich