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#1
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Yes the current wiring is scary, but it is safe. Alot of etra wiring from the VHF, Depth sounder and stereo makes it look like a rats nest. I have started making a few pyramid blocks for screws and such. I pirated that idea from looking at the X-shark on CM, NICE RESTAFICATION! What interior paint did you use Wart?
Unfortunatly I have the same glue problem there as the hull sides. This stuff was everywhere. If you look at the pics you can still see some Gorilla hair under fasteners that have not been removed yet like the resivoir for the steering and rail bolts and such. I think whitewater installed it before the cap and hull were joined. Fishjack - Wher did you mount that fuse panel? Under the console somewhere I would guess. Mine will be in a cabin hopefully that will make a difference. Did you switch to something else? If so what? Thanks again guys.
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May all your deadrise be variable. My 1973 SeaCraft 20SF Parker 2530 DVEC Boston Whaler 15 1984 |
#2
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I installed a (+)12V and (-)12V bus bar in my console fed each with 6g cables from my accessory battery. I opted to install inline fuses on my equipment that does not go through my Blue Seas fused flush mounted switch panel.
Blue Seas Busbar - ![]() I installed covers on each - cover ![]() It made for neat installation and the inline water proof fuses are easy to access and troubleshoot.
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"Anything you let a dog do, you're training it to do." - 1977 23' Superfish ST250x Yam |
#3
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If you like ATO/ATC fuses (I do) try an automotive in-line fuse holder. Waterproof, and they don't say "marine" on them so they came be bought fairly cheap at automotive stores. I've used the one in the middle of the page for a couple of years now without any problems.
http://order.waytekwire.com/IMAGES/M...og/218_062.pdf |
#4
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Bryan … This fuse block is going to feed everything on the boat ? Or are you going to change out switches ?
Blue Sea Weatherdeck panels seem to be the latest thing ( in either no fuse, blade fuse, and now circuit breaker.) Labels are back lit for circuit ID , to tell you if they are on or off and to tell you if the fuse is blown. They use Carling switches( I think are pretty good) which can be swapped out and changed for $5-7 a pop…. on/off, on/off/on, momentary on/off …and on and on. I like the fuses as they are simple to change( and inexpensive) if they pop !! The circuit breaker is pretty nice too but more money and if one goes bad …then what. A backup of each breaker might get expensive. Just something else to think about and an opinion I realize this is probably more than you are looking for … given how I *think* your going to apply it. I just got one and they look very well built. |
#5
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I would like to route all power throught this panel. I would also like to eliminate all the exterior switches that I can. It is easy enough for me to reach into the cabin from the helm and turn things on. This should clean up the dash. I think I'll leave the horn and big bilge pump on the dash and put everything else inside. That panel looks cool, how much did you pick it up for? Mine dosn't have to be waterproof but I like the switch panel. I was going to make up my own panel on mohoghany plywood inside the companion way since I already have all the switches. As you see from the pic anything is possible at this point. Thanks for all the suggestions so far.
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May all your deadrise be variable. My 1973 SeaCraft 20SF Parker 2530 DVEC Boston Whaler 15 1984 |
#6
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Dash pic test. I'm trying to figure ot this MAC.
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__________________
May all your deadrise be variable. My 1973 SeaCraft 20SF Parker 2530 DVEC Boston Whaler 15 1984 |
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