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#1
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Porter Cable.
http://www.porter-cable.com/index.asp?e=547&p=2769 Keep it flat. No side sanding or digging with it. You will have a temtation to use it to sand the primer. If you want a stright boat, don't do it. Hand block it with a rubber block. It will take you about 2 1/2 to 3 day's to do it right.[just the hand blocking of the side's and transom] PS I don't work for beer anymore. Those day's have long past. Show me the money. $ |
#2
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![]() Wart - very informative. Sanding is the most important part of the paint job. And doing it right is the only way to get great results ( Over the years, I have done it the right way and the wrong way - learning the hard way ! ) Question: the " spray bomb " is that a specific Krylon product for the purpose ? Also, holding the D/A flat is great advice and so hard to adhere to because you want so badly to hold it on an edge - but that definitely will give you unwanted unevenness. Lastly, the sanding block - I have heard that the longer the block, the smoother the finish - any validity to that ? Thx. |
#3
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Spray bomb = spray can, but put it in a fire and it go BooM!
The regular old Krylon in a contrasting color to see it easy when your wet sanding. A longer block is fine, but it can't be used in some place's where the hull has radical curve's. Sand across the curve on 45deg angles. |
#4
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I've been restoring my seacraft from the ground up since October of last year. What a project.
Right now, I'm finally to a point where I've begun putting bondo on the boat. The previous owner of this boat must have had it painted about 4 or 5 times OVER the factory coat. There's stress cracks, deep gouges, missing pieces of the hull... lots of stuff to fill in. Also, the bottom must have had 6 coats of different very thick paint. So I tried to do it the right way and sand it all off with 60-80 grit in a flat motion, but on some points of the finish, before I had even gotten down to the primer in an adjacent area, I was hitting fiberglass. So, I kind of had to turn the pad at an angle, lest I was sanding the original fiberglass. Needless to say, I have high and low spots everywhere on the boat. So I'm covering the whole boat in bondo and basically going from there. So, yeah, try not to do what I did, hopefully whoever had the boat before you didn't paint over the original coat 4 or 5 times. One thing that helps: I don't know what consists of the interior of your boat, but mine has been completely cut out, not including the front deck and the side walls. After I cut the floor out and redid the stringers and gas tank, I took the boat to my shop and flipped it over using a series of ropes, forklifts, and some scared friends. After I flipped it over, I put it back on the trailer upside down with the boat resting on some 4x4 pieces of wood. Sanding/finishing/painting is SOOOO much easier now. Just a thought. Another piece of advice from the old man: If you get tired of doing it right, STOP doing it. |
#5
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Please post pictures of the boat upside down on the trailer
__________________
Otto And yes, I still believe in the four boat theory... |
#6
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Bondo?
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