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#1
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Fishjack,
When you are done fairing, how thick do you think the Quick Fair will be, and do you plan on overlaying it with anything to guard against skim coat cracking? |
#2
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dcobbett - I am keeping the thickness of the fairing to a minimum. System Three recommends at least 2 coats of epoxy resin over the final layer of fairing.
I plan on tinting some of the RAKA epoxy red and rolling it over the quickfair when I finish. Then will lightly sand and prep for paint. Will roll and tip the paint (like the rest of the boat) with Signature Finish. If you (or anyone) suspects that I might have problems with this plan (skim coat cracking etc.) please let me know. Thanks
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"Anything you let a dog do, you're training it to do." - 1977 23' Superfish ST250x Yam |
#3
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You will not have any problem's with the Quik Fair Jack.
The bildge look's Great. ![]() |
#4
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Good clean work. Thanks for keeping us posted.
strick
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"I always wanted to piss in the Rhine" (General George Patton upon entering Germany) |
#5
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Thanks for the compliments guys – this has been a much bigger undertaking than I expected but I figure if you are going to do it at least try and do it right.
Congratulations on splashing the X-shark Bobby she looks GREAT...
__________________
"Anything you let a dog do, you're training it to do." - 1977 23' Superfish ST250x Yam |
#6
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fishjack,
No, just a question, and I don't have any reason (or experience) to suspect that the material might crack. I'm just getting into the rebuild stage of a new transom in my 20 Sea Craft right now, and I am debating if I should reattach the cut off glass piece I removed from the outside (should reduce the amount of fairing?), or throw it away and possibly make a stronger transom with multiple layers of Biaxial, realizing that I might have more fairing to do in the end. |
#7
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dcobbett
I went the "throw it away" route for a couple of reasons – 1) I was going with a full transom vs. a notched transom. & 2) I figured that laying new glass on the new wood would make a much better bond than "gluing" the old skin back on with thickened epoxy. The fairing – SO FAR – has not been that bad but I am using a 17” pneumatic straight-line sander – that helps ease the pain.. ![]()
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"Anything you let a dog do, you're training it to do." - 1977 23' Superfish ST250x Yam |
#8
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__________________
"Anything you let a dog do, you're training it to do." - 1977 23' Superfish ST250x Yam |
#9
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Nice job! Just wondering, why plywood on the deck and composite for the sides? I am in the middle of making this decision for a future project. I assume strenght and weight and probably cost influenced you. Good luck with finishing her.
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May all your deadrise be variable. My 1973 SeaCraft 20SF Parker 2530 DVEC Boston Whaler 15 1984 |
#10
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Bryan - the main reason for the Penske Board on the transom cap and bulkhead was to cut down on weight.
Also I did not have enought 1/2 inch marine plywood to do the transom cap and bulkhead so I ordered the sheet of Penske board here locally and picked it up. It is really easy to work with..
__________________
"Anything you let a dog do, you're training it to do." - 1977 23' Superfish ST250x Yam |
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