Transom Survey this am...issues-some questions....

[mbo_1971]

So I had the transom on my '84 20SF surveyed this am. Did an external moisture meter test and there was at least 20% saturation across the entire plane (needle went straight to the red - max - as soon as it was applied. He also did the mallet test, but could not find any dead spots. Finally we drilled a hole (16th inch) near the lowest bilge hole, and while the wood was damp, it was light brown, not dark and rot looking, and did not weep. So, my questions to the board:

1) I am hanging a rather large motor on this rig - 200 HPDI - should I be worried about the above situation?

2) If I do replace the transom, I would rather not tear into the inside of the cockpit. What say the board about replacing the transom from the outside rather than from the inside?

3) If I do the transom, should I do a bracket, or am I biting off a lot for a 20'er?

Finally - does anyone know what the max motor weight for this boat is/was? I know Riff Raff has a 200 HPDI on his, but he has done the transom. Wondering if I am just asking for trouble in planning on laying up the motor without doing something.

Surveyor suggested I cut out a few holes and see what the wood looks like or to cut a few strips of the glass away to let the wood dry. Thoughts in this as well?

Thanks in advance for assistance.

matt

[caper]

1. Yes
2. Just had my '75 - 20SF done from the outside - and
I'm happy with the results
3. I think a bracket puts too much weight behind
a 20SF
Finally - In my opinion 400 lbs is the limit on a 20SF -
batteries and oil tank moved forward. Yes, in my opinion
you are asking for trouble - at least try drying it out.

[strick]

I would replace the transom if it is wet. Somewere on this board is a formula for how much beer it takes to replace a transom. I would put trim tabs on the 20 if you bracket her. I have not heard too much about the 20 bracketed. I've heard some say that it porpoises but I dont thint we have had a whole lot of feed back about that set up. It would be nice to hear more. Replacing the transom from the outside is an acceptable method.

strick

[oldbluesplayer]

I'll second that - replace the transom - and yes, from the outside is fine.

Beyond what the surveyor did, if there is a motor hanging on there now, tilt it up, stand on the cavitation plate, and see if that transom flexs, at all - and realize with a full bracket you're going to be putting that much stress or more on the transom.

What is the motor cut-out - 20" or 25" - and if you bracket, you might as well fill that hole up.... and if you're going to fill the transom notch... back to it - you might as well replace/ rebuild/ recore the transom.

Another thought, IMHO, is that that wood can't be dried adequately - the original core is plywood, and I believe even if you skinned the transom and let it sit for several weeks, that the multiple glue boundaries in the plywood would prevent the inner layers from significantly drying out - leaving you guessing if it's good enough. In that same couple of weeks, you could skin it, decore and recore, reskin, fair, paint, and be done, and Know that it's right.

For what it's worth - on drying - I just worked the floor of my Seafari - it wasn't horrible, but one side was significantly softer than the other - I pulled the skin off one side, and recored, and reskinned. On the other side, I drilled a pattern of holes across the floor, 3/16" holes in a grid on 4" centers, and let it sit for three months to dry, with the boat covered, then poured resin in the holes and weighted it down. That side is better, but not good. The side I recored is Solid. For my money, from my experience, drying don't work.

but that's just my .02 worth.

I think with that size motor you're talking, you're going to need at least a 25" transom, and always plug the scuppers - or rebuild and raise the floor a couple inches - search thru the 20's page and see what the guys have done - you probably didn't want to hear all this - but we've been there.

best to you

Bill

[eggsuckindog]

I don't fully agree on replacement if its still structurely sound, dry it if possible but alot of boats will show dampness.

[oldbluesplayer]

ESD - in your location, I would agree, that a mildly damp transom will survive for quite awhile - but the location he gives is Baltimore - up there he is going to see some freezing weather in the winter - take a damp/ wet transom, add freezing weather, and it will get softer, a whole lot quicker. Take that, and hang a 200hp motor - the stresses will accumulate.

Bill

[Bigshrimpin]

Try to dry it out

or

Drill some more holes and start an ant farm.

or

put an aluminum plate over the transom. Wait 5 - 10 years . . . It'll make your job a lot easier when you rip go to replace it. Trying to rip into strong wet marine ply is not fun.