Please post your wiring pictures.......

1bayouboy · #1 11-17-2006, 12:46 PM

I'm trying to figure out the attachments on that PowerPak...
the rods and levers...looks like offsets to mount something over it too. It is an AWESOME job...

Old'sCool · #2 11-17-2006, 04:10 PM

Very nice indeed!!! Trick controls too!! I'm also looking into the Blue Seas switch panels. It looks like with their switches you have to have seperate anchor/nav. switches as opposed to the old pull/3-ways.

Miles Offshore · #3 11-17-2006, 04:18 PM

Reelescape- you do have to seperate the anchor and nav lights. what sux is when you have a masthead and a seperate sternlight where you really need that 3 way switch to make the aft side of the masthead go out when you want running lights alone. I think I have it figured out though. (gotta put a jumper wire from running light switch to one/fwd masthead wire on the anchor switch)

Old'sCool · #4 11-17-2006, 05:23 PM

That would work!!

warthog5 · #5 11-17-2006, 06:41 PM

Quote:

I'm trying to figure out the attachments on that PowerPak...
the rods and levers...looks like offsets to mount something over it too. It is an AWESOME job...

The shift/throttle cables connect to those bell crank's via a ball stud. thos bellcrank's move depending on where you move the shifter and it relay's that to the cables.

warthog5 · #6 11-17-2006, 06:49 PM

As to the 2 switch methiod. You don't need it.

But you do need to order switch 8220 Double Pole- Double Throw. ON/OFF/ON.

http://www.bluesea.com/product.asp?P...=7459&l2=7489#

dcobbett · #7 11-18-2006, 11:27 AM

Rookie question, but why use so many terminal posts and bus bars? Is it to save wire? They seem like open accidents and trouble spots just waiting to happen, plus they have to add to maintenance.

warthog5 · #8 11-19-2006, 02:33 AM

I'm sure your referring to the one in the back. It is coated with fluid film to protect it. That is the connection point for all the pump's and float switch's.

Ok, now think about this. Most boat's have the wiring all crimped and sealed for these and that's fine untill you have a problem and need to do some testing. Then you take a test light and stab the insulation to test for power. You have just screwed up the watertite integrity of the wiring.

So enter the terminal board into the system. Now I can prop the terminal's for power. I can also do a quicker componet swap too.

Here's the drawing.

warthog5 · #9 11-19-2006, 02:36 AM

Here's the Power Pac.

TUGBOAT · #10 11-19-2006, 11:02 AM

Quote:

Ok, now think about this. Most boat's have the wiring all crimped and sealed for these and that's fine untill you have a problem and need to do some testing. Then you take a test light and stab the insulation to test for power. You have just screwed up the watertite integrity of the wiring.

Are those Wires Crimped in Your First Photo's? I check mine at the ends. I do agree not to STICK & puncture any wires. I've had crimped wires on most Every boat I've owned & run, Most problems came from the switch or electronic device they were hooked to. Unless they were submerged. The Correct process & Crimper is like The process of Painting. Do it Right the first Time.
Nice , Clean setup Ya have. Afraid My 20' would.nt float with all the GiZmo's!

Sure like My Compass!
Scream'n reals'
Tug