Here We Go Again

[strick]

Sorry Hermco I spelled it wrong. I did not know what it was either until a few years ago when I saw it on the menu at a sandwich shop. Here is a link: http://www.mediterrasian.com/delicio...pes_hummus.htm

strick

[hermco]

Mmmmmmmmmmmm hummus!!!!!!!!!

[BigMike8o9]

Now I know how Strick get's so much done so fast. See the photos, he's got child labor workin for him.

[Chaos]

Sorry strick it's not a Seacraft, it's a 1988 26' blackwatch. I'll post some pics on a new thread so i do't hi jack this one. Can't wait to get back to work on it.

[strick]

It's been a little while. Here is some of what I've been doing.

On the boat there are lots of annoying little holes to fill in the deck cap and transom.



I took my dremel and bored out a bevel around each and everyone of them.



I took my air blower and blew off all dust and then flushed out all the holes with acetone.



For the ones on the deck cap blue tape with a small piece of wet mat was applied to the underside of the bigger ones and tape only under the smaller ones. I then filled the holes with cabosil in a syringe.



For the ones on the transom a piece of blue tape was applied with light pressure over the holes so the cabosil would not run down and make a mess. If you press the tape too hard you will push the cabosil back into the hole and be left with an indention that you will again have to fair over. The cabosil/resin mixture was mixed thin in order to be able to inject it into the deep holes.




In order to reduce the amount of fairing to the inside of the hull I will be making some fiberglass panels. These panels will be glued to areas in between the gunnel cap supports and anchor locker shown here.



I've already done some sanding and fairing in these areas to smooth it out in prep for the panels.

A 4x8 sheet of melamine will be used for a molding table.



I waxed it with partall paste and coated it with duratec primer.



Two lyers of 2 ounce matt were then applied over the duratec while it was still a little tacky.



Action shot



Once cured it was easily broke free from the molding table.



Various templates were made.



Molds for the two panels nearest the bow were made using the outside of the boat as the molding table. The area was taped off and waxed.



Duratec applied



Glass over the duratec.



More to come soon.

strick

[FELLOW-SHIP]

Strick

Again things are looking really sweet on that boat of yours. Keep up the good work and don’t forget the Beer.

I had been thinking about making a mold table myself approx 5’ x 7’ to make a glass panel for my T-top. Replacing the Sunbrella fabric one I have now which is starting to look old. BUT I just got a piece of Pro-Tec material in the mail this week which has a great looking finish on both sides for my top. SOOOO looks like I will drop the idea of making a fiberglass one and go with it instead. I figure I would save enough in Beer money to more that off set the cost of Pro-Tech.

FellowShip

_______________________________________________

My motto: Just for the Grins

[Bryan A.]

Nice idea with using the sides of the boat as a mold. How did they come out? What are you going to use to glue them in?

[RingLeader]

I saw a guy (Joker from the FS forum) taking a mold from the outside of a hull to make the inner liner sides when I visited his shop in Ft. Pierce about 3 years ago.

Very slick move... Its gonna be sweet!

[strick]

Fellowship- what is this stuff you speak of pro-tech? Me no find on Google!

I'll back up a bit. I first used the flat molding table to make some fiberglass panels. The panels were fitted into place in the inner hull sides. However the two most forward panels would not contour to the shape of the hull due to the bow flair in this area, Thats when I decided to pull a part off the forward bow area to use for the two forward areas.

Here is were I'm at now.



Staples were used with a cardboard cleat to help facilitate removal.




Exterior grade Liquid nails.... Thats right I said Liquid Nails (rated for fiberglass use) was used to adhere the panels to the cored sides.



For the two forward sections that I talked about earlier I used a mixture of cabosil and resin to glue the stubborn areas.



A few more shots




Strick

[Bryan A.]

That interior looks huge without the inner liner. Nice stuff!

I use a liquid nails like products to put together plywood skiffs up here in the northeast. Stuff works great and sticks real good. Takes a few days to totally cure though.