Here We Go Again

[strick]

Fellowship- what is this stuff you speak of pro-tech? Me no find on Google!

I'll back up a bit. I first used the flat molding table to make some fiberglass panels. The panels were fitted into place in the inner hull sides. However the two most forward panels would not contour to the shape of the hull due to the bow flair in this area, Thats when I decided to pull a part off the forward bow area to use for the two forward areas.

Here is were I'm at now.



Staples were used with a cardboard cleat to help facilitate removal.




Exterior grade Liquid nails.... Thats right I said Liquid Nails (rated for fiberglass use) was used to adhere the panels to the cored sides.



For the two forward sections that I talked about earlier I used a mixture of cabosil and resin to glue the stubborn areas.



A few more shots




Strick

[Bryan A.]

That interior looks huge without the inner liner. Nice stuff!

I use a liquid nails like products to put together plywood skiffs up here in the northeast. Stuff works great and sticks real good. Takes a few days to totally cure though.

[FELLOW-SHIP]

HOOPS I should have said Pro Trim

Here you go.

http://www.pro-trim.com/product.asp?ID=56&nPage=3

FellowShip

_______________________________________________

My motto: Just for the Grins

[strick]

Thanks Fellowship. Never herd of the stuff but it looks good. Let us know how it works.

Bryan- I still have to pull the all the staples. I've pulled a few out just to see how easy they will come out and they come out easily. I'll pull them all this weekend. Liquid nails is $17.00 a gallon and it took a gallon to glue the panels in place. A lot cheaper then resin and I avoided the PIA of having to mix cabosil. Plus the stuff is more sticky then resin/cabosil. The panels just pressed right in place. It's very solid. Keeping costs down and getting the job done.

I still will use the panels I pulled off the sides of the boat to fill in the upper most portions that I could not cover with the flat panels. They held their shape OK.




I needed to get some marks on the panels while they were still on the side of the boat so I would know were to make my cuts. I used a really long 1/8" drill bit and attached it to my handy little angle drill.



drilled some holes from the inside out



and connected the dots



The panels did not hurt the outside of the hull in any way other then the little 1/8" holes that I will fill later.



I'll get more done this weekend hopefully.

strick

[BigMike8o9]

"I needed to get some marks on the panels while they were still on the side of the boat so I would know were to make my cuts. I used a really long 1/8" drill bit and attached it to my handy little angle drill."

Wow, Great idea. Did you see that somwhere or was it yours. I would have overthought that to the point of making all kinds of transfers and contraptions.
Perfect KISS engineering.

[strick]

Another weekly up date. Lots of boring stuff going on. Most of it is not worth posting.

Sanding down thru the gel coat because of the blistering.



I have a feeling the entire bottom will have to be done in this fashion but I wont be sure till I turn the boat over.

I continued to make good use of my fiberglass panels covering anything that is flat.



I let the fiberglass panels cure for several days before removing the staples shown below.



A pick was used to elevate the staples thus removing them easily.



A word about using the fiberglass panals. Make sure you use LOTS OF GLUE. I had about 4-5 areas toward the bottom of the panels were I did not put enough glue and I got some voids
were the panels would push in slightly. I had to drill some small 1/8 inch holes and inject resin into these areas.




If I had this to do over again I would put these panels in while the deck cap is off the boat. It would go much faster.

The panels were sanded lightly and cleaned with denatured alcohol. The corners were taped and a small bead of cabosil/microballoons was injected into the corners.




After the tape was pulled it left a nice finished corner. The corners will get sanded and then one more bead will be applied.

At any rate I'm happy with the way things are going. The panels are solid and the inside of the boat is starting to take shape. Here are a few shots.



For finishing the tops of the panels under the gunnel the area was sanded and cabosil/microballoons swiped over the area. 1/2 Oz matt will go over this to prevent cracking.



The fish box gel coat had lots of blisters and needed to be sanded.




Till next time




strick

[1bayouboy]

What can you say.....AWESOME! Thanks for taking the time to get shots and post them.

[silverg]

Looking great strick.
Saw them strip the gel on a B31 on Ship Shape using something like this. Too much money for a one time use, but if somebody had one to rent. Looked to go pretty fast.
My bil's B20 is going to require that if we ever get to it.

http://www.paintshaver.com/marineshaver.html

[strick]

The weather has warmed up a bit here in California which has helped to speed up the cure rate for fiberglass and I'm taking advantage of that. There has been a lot of fairing and sanding going on especially on the transom. Up till now
I've been making my own fairing compound with the vinylester mixed with cabosil and microballoons.

Shot showing the transom and rear gunnel/cap area



This is Tim's fairing block and it can really level an area out fast



Glass is added over heavily faired areas to prevent future cracking. These areas will get sanded again and faired once more.



More fairing compound is added to the area were the forward deck meets the walls to blend it all together. This area has been faired and glassed once already so this is the second
go around. Another layer of glass will go on top of this and then a final detail fairing over that.



I was at a welding supply company the other day picking up some liquid nitrogen that I use for work and happened upon a really cool tool by accident.



The wad of sandpaper has a hole in the middle. It fits over the bit shown. This little guy makes short work of hard to reach areas like tight corners.



It was time to start thinking about getting the floor looking good so I made a big template out of poster paper. I then cut this template into six smaller templates three for
each side.



I laid up two 4x8 flat panel's. There is a layer of 1.5 oz matt and a layer of 1708 over the duratec.



The templates were traced onto the panel and the parts for the floor were cut out.



Test fitting the panels



The entire floor was floated twice with fairing compound and sanded after each floating.



Once it was smooth and level it was cleaned with denatured alcohol and a layer of 1.5 oz matt was laminated in place.



while the floor was still wet I took my fiberglass panels and coated the down side with a heavy coat of vinylester resin and set them in place.



3/4 inch MDF is placed on top of the panels and is weighted down with cinder blocks to ensure good even contact.



I busted my butt trying to get it all down and weighted while everything was still wet and I'll pay for it later tonight when I stiffen up....no jokes please capt chuck

I got my order of system three quick fair in the other day. This is a 3 gallon kit so it should last beyond this project.



If you have never used this stuff you should try it. You will never go back to mixing your filler again. It is epoxy based so you can put it over vinylester or epoxy. It's expensive $205 for a 3 gallon kit so I'm using it for finish fairing not for high build type fairing.

I put some on the transom and were I made my mods to the rear gunnels.



As you can see it smooths out like butter.

Thats it for now. I'm wooped and going to take the kids out for dinner.

strick

[Bryan A.]

You're getting good with those panels. Nice Job!!!!

You should write a book.