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  #1  
Old 05-15-2007, 03:53 PM
hvaldezz hvaldezz is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 25
Default Separation of hull to stringers and ribs

I'm still trying to assess all the features of my boat that I bought, a 20ft CC.

I've found some water in the bilge after about 3 hours, some of which was a little rough water but not bad. Then, this past weekend I found what I think may be a problem in the outside of the hull. When I push on the sides about 5-6 feet from the transom, it feels like there is no connection between the hull sides and the rest of boat. This feels the same on both sides. As I move forward toward the bow it starts to get more solid and at the bow the hull feels solid, like my other boat (a SeaRay).

My SeaRay feels solid all the way around yet my SeaCraft feels like there's a separation. Since I can see the outsdie of the hull through the cutouts for rods, etc. I'm thinking this is the design, is this true?

I'm kinda worried because if it's unsafe, I'll need to have it fixed, an expenditure I wasn't planning on.

Others out there had this type of problem? This boat came for the Key West, Florida area.

Any help appreciated. How is the boat supposed to feel, solid? flexible?

Hank
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  #2  
Old 05-15-2007, 03:56 PM
bunderwood bunderwood is offline
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Homestead,Fl
Posts: 110
Default Re: Separation of hull to stringers and ribs

I just bought a 79 20 sf and its soild all the way around the onlt soft spots i have are on the deck.
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  #3  
Old 05-15-2007, 08:02 PM
samuelcooper samuelcooper is offline
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Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 24
Default Re: Separation of hull to stringers and ribs

I'm currently restoring a 69 20 ft. I had the same concerns about the hull near the stern. I think that part of the problem is the way the cap is attached to the hull. I think it is called a shoebox design. After removing the rubrail which was obviously an add on, the "weakness" was more obvious because the screws holding the rubrail on went through the hull also, thus holding the cap to the hull. There were a few rivets left. There is only a small lip 1/2 to 3/4 inch of cap overlapping the hull. After removing the transom, I found that there is a massive amount of glass in the bottom of the hull and in the stringers, but it is fairly thin on the sides of the hull. I really don't think it is a structural issue since the bottom of the hull and stringers are so heavy. But it could explain the water in the bilge (spraying up in the gap between the hull and the cap. This is an issue with many new production boats and they try to "fix" it with a bead of silicone in the gap, which fails. Some new boats have a better way of attaching cap to hull.
I'm thinking on how to make a better bond between the cap and the hull, thus stiffening the sides of the hull. Have several ideas but haven't decided.
Remember, these boats have no foam. Newer boats that are foamed may feel more solid but it just be the foam.
If you are really concerned about it, you could glass the inside of the hull but it would add lots of weight aft and probably change the ride a good bit.
Again, I'm no expert.
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  #4  
Old 05-15-2007, 08:37 PM
muddywater muddywater is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Abbeville, LA
Posts: 220
Default Re: Separation of hull to stringers and ribs

There isn't any connection between the hull sides and the inner liner except for the joint at the rail. The foam between the two in newer boats might give the impression of being more solid even though the glass might not be as thick. Also, Will and I were discussing this a while back, that there appears to be some coring in the hull sides that does not go all the way back so it feels more solid where there is coring. Someone who has taken their boat apart could probably tell you more.
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  #5  
Old 05-16-2007, 12:03 AM
strick strick is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: California
Posts: 2,738
Default Re: Separation of hull to stringers and ribs

Here is a dressed out 20sf 1969 model. While the top of the cap is cut off you can see the gap between the outer hull and inner liner. It should sound kinda hollow when you pound on the hull sides. As you near the bow there is slightly more glass built in during construction as this is the business end of the boat. Plus the two sides are starting to join which makes it stiffer as well. As Sonny was saying it is important to make sure that the area were the liner and hull join (under the rub rail) is solid. There was very little foam in my 20sf on the sides just what you see in the picture.



strick
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  #6  
Old 05-16-2007, 01:06 AM
hvaldezz hvaldezz is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 25
Default Re: Separation of hull to stringers - Thanks!!

Thank you all for your inputs on the hull and how it's put together. From what I can tell,what I feel is just the design of the hull itself. After seeing the dressed out 69 picture, it pretty much tells the story.

Again, thank you for your comments, I feel a little bit better now. I will definitely check the connection of the cap to the hull and will probably replace the rubrail to make it look a little bit better.

Great board, I'm glad I'm a member.

Hank
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  #7  
Old 05-16-2007, 09:06 AM
samuelcooper samuelcooper is offline
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Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 24
Default Re: Separation of hull to stringers and ribs

What are you going to do/did you do to rebind the liner to the hull? I was only planning on redoing where they are fastened and not take out the top of the liner/cap (worried about losing shape even with the new transom in).

Also, did yours have a leaning post? Mine didn't and the helm is far aft. I'm looking for one with a short profile so I have a little room behind it. Really don't want to change the placement of the console too much for fear of changing the ride.

BTW, those pictures are great and helpful to me. Mine didn't have any foam at rear of hull. Don't know if it has coming or not. thanks!
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