deck reconstruction

chrisvazquez1 · #1 10-23-2007, 11:05 PM

Im a new member and just recently purchased my second seacraft. I bought a 20' 1984 from a guy down in ft pierce. I recently tore out the old soggy deck and left about 2 inches lip to refit the new deck. My question pertains to the plywood i recently purchased. I bought 1/2" ac exterior grade plywood although the old wood looks like 3/4".Is that a big deal? considering I plan to glass the boards before setting them in place. Does this sound like a go? or no? also any info on what fiberglass to use for the deck would be appreciated: chopped mat, woven roven, biaxil??

GradySailfish · #2 10-23-2007, 11:41 PM

The 1/2 will work ok given you add enough laminate on both sides of the wood. I used AC Douglas Fir 3/4 inch. As for what to put on top of the wood I used 2 layers of 1808 followed by 1 layer of 6oz cloth, followed by epoxy fairing compound.

If I had to do it all over again, I would have laid up the panels for the deck on a mold table so that way I would have saved alot of sanding.

Here's a link to my project page that will hopefully give you some decent ideas on what to do.

http://www.classicseacraft.com/forum...=&fpart=2&vc=1

GradySailfish · #3 10-23-2007, 11:43 PM

One more thing..I read you said you bought "Exterior Grade" plywood. Is it pressure treated....if so that might present a problem for resins when glassing.

jwclbi · #4 10-24-2007, 09:51 PM

chris,
I replaced my deck 3 years ago and I used a product called penske board. I plan on keeping my boat a long time so i didnt want wood that will take water. Penske board is a product that will not absorb water at all. Its a little more pricey but well worth it if you're going to keep your rig. Just a thought.

doug7488 · #5 10-25-2007, 05:41 PM

Some might say a waste of money - but I always install marine plywood - all knots and voids are patched - prevents "crushing" if you happen to bolt or screw something in that area.
Fir ply grabs resin real nice.
I would stay away from pressure treated ply - I don't think resin bonds to it well, is full of voids & high moisture content.

bobbert · #6 10-25-2007, 10:02 PM

JUST REPAIRED SOFT SPOTS ON FORWARD CASTING DECK ON 20' CC.

CUT OFF TOP LAYER OF FIBERGLASS AND GROUND OUT OLD BALTEK BALSA CORE. USED BALTEK INSTEAD OF PLYWOOD AS PAST EXPERIENCE YIELDED A LOT OF GAS POCKETS FROM DAMP PLYWOOD.

PUT DOWN A SINGLE LAYER OF 1 OZ MAT, BLATEK (SCRIM DOWN ON OLD BOTTOM AND RE-INSTALLED OLD TOP SKIN.
POLYESTER RESIN USED ON ALL JOINTS.

USED VARIOUS CHISELS ETC. BEST TOOL WAS (WINDOW SASH LOOSENING TOOL) ALLOWED YOU TO GET BALTEK OUT FROM WHERE THE DECK MEETS THE VERTICAL WALL.

IS VERY STRONG WITH NO FLEX.

GOOD LUCK.