Here We Go Again - Page 40

Hookdude · #**391** 10-28-2007, 02:19 PM

Strick,

Over the years my greasy/oily/clumsy hands have dropped countless items in numerous places. Since the item is usually either needed (tool / part) or will reek havoc if left in place (gearbox / carb), I've used assorted methods of retrieval.
For your 1/4" ratchet I'd suggest a magnet attached to a flexible hose. 1/4"-3/8" fuel line should work well. But you could also use vacuum line or the small air line used for aquariums. A "fish tape" or length of mechanic's wire could also do it if the bends/angles aren't too severe.

Since you're dealing with fiberglass and don't have any (I think) ferrous material to "grab" the magnet, use the strongest one you can find that will fit in the access areas.

Your endoscope should make it easy to see where the magnet is as you advance it. Twisting the hose while pushing should get you around any bends and cause the magnet to "sweep" when you get near the ratchet.

This may take a couple attempts, but should do the trick. Hope this works for you.
(A quarter inch ratchet may not do much damge, but it would drive me nuts bouncing around!)

The boat's looking awesome!!!!!!!!
I hope to use some of your ideas on my upcoming project.

Cheers,
Bob

gofastsandman · #**392** 10-28-2007, 05:00 PM

Hi Strick,

Sure wish you lived in so fl. for a work/ reward apprenticeship.

I bought an 89 20 sf 5 mos. ago and am soooo happy. It`s in very nice overall shape, but when they rigged it, they drilled into the core to mount the pulls and of course they failed. A real pain to remove the old core and I too thought it odd that they used small squares. I didn`t know better and used 1 pce cores. Being a former surfer[ roofing accident, so no more surfing] I was somewhat familiar w/ shrinkage and layup. I beveled the edges when I ripped them and used a belt sander freehand to radius a semicircle for the pulls so it wont be an issue. Used 1 layer biax under and 2 over. Flashes reaaaaaly fast in summer here. It`s now cooling off and here I am. The previous owner moved the batts under the console and the coffin cover is shattered.
Worse still is he put furring strips on top of the tank and used 5200 to do it! HELP ME.

How am I going to get it out w/ out ruining it completely?

My hatch is 8` 1'' x 26 1/4``. I found it interesting that you too chose 26 1/4 ``.............

Anybody got one laying around?

Can you cut the 5200 w/ something? Is there a solvent to break it down?

Really hope to save it for a recore.

You should be justly proud.

Just got my 1`st digi-cam and am learning slowly but will take pics of the disconnect and job. Hope the tank is ok.......

Thx for the great tips.
GFS

joey · #**393** 10-28-2007, 09:30 PM

Strick the boat is comming along great!! Be careful with the strainer pointing aft,it will probably drain your tank while underway.You may want to consider turning it back around so while trolling and drifting it pushes water to your pump,and just close the seacock while steaming.

strick · #**394** 10-30-2007, 05:24 PM

Bob- There is an area were I can get a magnet into near the transom were the scupper tubes are. I will try later to get it out from there. Thanks for tips. It was my favorite ratchet.

GFS- I don't know of any easy way to remove 5200. They do make a solvent that is supposed to help dissolve/loosen it and I tried it once but it did not really work all that well. I have used a wire saw before. Being careful not to damage the fiberglass. That along with machine multiple curse words had limited effect. It might be easier to just build a new hatch.

Joey- either way I'm going to have to turn off the sea cock for fear of overflowing the tank (when pointed forward) or draining the tank (when pointed aft) so I'm going to try it this way and see what happens. The only issue I may have is it may not prime the pump very well when pointed aft. If this happens then I will flip it. On my 23 despite a large 1.5 inch drain located well below the top of the tank, the volume of the water pushing into the tank is greater then the volume exiting and the tank will overflow onto the deck if I don't remember to shut off the sea cock when traveling.

More progress over the last couple weeks. I seem to get the most work done late at night when the kids are asleep, the pager is not going off and the cell phone is not ringing. An old worn out Glen Campbell CD and a cigar help to pacify me while working.

drain for the fish box installed.

It was a major pain working in the small access hatch.

The distance between the thru hull and the fish box drain is only a few inches and there is a 90 degree angle between the two. I was barely able to get a 90 degree fitting on the sea cock without it bumping the fish box as I tightened it down. Working with one hand I managed to get it all installed. I wanted a bronze sea cock but it was too big so I had to go with one of those heavy duty plastic ones. Several trips to west marine for different fittings and this is the best I could come up with

bronze thru hull for fish box

The rub rail is installed. taco Marine part # V21-9613 It's rigid vinyl with a ss insert.
Since I was working alone I used ladders to hold up the ends of the 20 foot pieces while I screwed them in place.

ss insert and bilge pump thru hull

Trim tabs mounted. I still have to hook up the electrical.

Pull up for the deck hatches Seadog makes these.

The rod holders on the cc will have drains that empty into the bilge.

Bigshrimpin brought down his cherry picker and helped me mount the motor. Thanks again Tim!

getting started on the leaning post

strick

Bigshrimpin · #**395** 10-30-2007, 06:06 PM

Chuck - It looks fantastic . . . . just like a brand new boat. You need to post a side shot of the boat from a distance . . . that'd make a great seacraft centerfold. That console makes a LOT of room inside the cockpit.

76Red18 · #**396** 10-30-2007, 06:16 PM

Strick,
First off, thats a beautiful boat and your craftsmanship is unbeatable. Second, what's that electronic module on the right of your trim tab pump? Mine doesn't have one. Lastly, I mounted my pump on the transom like yours but had problems with it sucking air into the lines. I made a wedge to fit behind the pump to keep the fluid more level which solved that problem.
Again, great work.. Richard

gofastsandman · #**397** 10-30-2007, 09:34 PM

Thanks Strick,

That`s some gorgeous work.

Was thinking Rybovich/Spencer could use a production mgr. and you could move over to Fl.

Think I can raise the console a bit and slide the coffin cover out the splashwell or am I looking at a complete disconnect?

Thx,
GFS

strick · #**398** 10-30-2007, 10:48 PM

Richard- Thanks for the tip on the trim reservoir. I will level it out. The module is for the fancy trim indicator switch. This is the first set of Bennets I've owned so I'm not all that familiar with them. The module may be a new addition. Do you have the same trim indicator switch ?

GFS- Thanks. If you have room to lift up the consel and set it on blocks then you may be able to accomplish it without disconnecting everything. I see were mentioned in a previous thred that you had a roofing accident. I used to work hot tar and gravel for a couple years out of high school. Tuff work. I got burned on one of my hands real bad and it was not long after that when I decided to get into something else.

strick

Capt Chuck · #**399** 10-31-2007, 07:35 AM

Outstanding Chuck!!

I Now crown you "The SeaCraft Refurbishing King"

joey · #**400** 10-31-2007, 11:41 AM

I'll second that Capt.Chuck!! Awesome job Strick!!!

I am inspired now to redo my deck in the Jenna Mae,I hate the teak that is on there now and it is 28 years old,I planned to put down new plywood,glass,epoxy,non skid and AwlGrip,but I am really liking the stuff on Stricks decks,it's got to be bullet proof!