Cracked Stringers

[EBEACH]

The first picture of your second post looks like the remains of something that was tabbed to the stringer and not the stringer itself. Its hard to tell, but looks to be the tabbing in of an old fuel tank support deck.

[Happi1fla]

Great information, will fill the corners/edges, and glass the entire length.
Still not certain on where to remove the glass to get inside where the foam is.
I could remove foam ,drill holes and epoxy as suggested, or could their be a thinner piece of glass that covers over the top, ( like the top to a wooden stringer,) where I could cut the top off remove old foam, glass over and refill with foam.
Would like to inspect inside where the glass comes up from the floor to see any internal cracks.
I guess what I ‘m asking are these stringers one solid box, where by cutting into the top would weaken them structurally, will plan on replacing all foam at some point
Just haven’t opened up that area yet,
I hope I’m making sense, just not enough sleep.
.

[JohnB]

I would not use glass, I would use epoxy. Lighter, stronger, and you get both a physical bond, and a secondary bond. If your looking at buying supplies or especially competant materials tech support go to bateau/boat builder central. They know what they are talking about and you can talk to them on the phone.

I would take a piece of wood, or even your foot, and press against the side of the stringer to see if the stringer skin has separated from the stringer foam by pushing in on it. If it is still connected, you won't get much flex in. Then I would drill small 1/8" hole down near the bottom of the stringer, especally near the stern, and see if water comes out. If it is real wet, I would plan on cutting the top of the stringer box, and digging out the wet foam, and replacing the foam. You can't believe how heavy those stringers become when they are wet. If it is dry, but loose, I would go with the epoxy every 12" the length of the stringer approach. It will reattach, and add a little strength. If it is a little wet, you will have to make the call. A wet transome and wet stringers/coring can add 400 pounds to these boats. I weighed my transom tearout, and was stunned at what it weighed, over 200 pounds.

If you have to cut the top off the stringer, and put foam in it, I would put 4 layers of 45 degree biaxel 6 oz cloth on it offset by an inch or so to seal it back up. It will be stronger than new.

In any case, I would run some of that down the sides/tabs of the stringers to reinforce the hull to stringer connection. This is a week link in these boats.

The connection/structure points of failure in old seacrafts seem to be
- rub rail joint for the cap/liner/hull
- stringers loose from the floor
- gas tank platform and bulkhead
- transom, they are all shot after 15-20 years
- sole/liner to stringer connection
- floor/deck/lid coring

[Happi1fla]

JohnB, Alex and Ebeach and all others thank you for your help and experience , after receiving all that info,
sorry for not getting back to you right away , what a huge help this will be , Beers on me.

John