Rotted Transom

tsnowIII · #1 01-04-2008, 05:04 PM

18 CC....Well I have been taking rotten wood from the transom inside the stern hatches and have determined that the rot is widespread and now provides a home for wood boring worms.. So to say the least.. I have opened up a big can of worms!!

I have had 2 suggestions so far.. cut the entire transom off and rebuild it or make a metal bracket for the area where the motor mounts and replace the wood that I can!!

Just looking for some suggestions and thoughts about what is going on with my seacraft...??

Help!

Trey

3rdday · #2 01-04-2008, 05:55 PM

If you are going to do it, do it correctly, you are already goint to be replacing part of the transome, do it all. It may be easier to replace all. If you keep the boat you will win by default, if you sell it you will be able to get more $$ for it. A metal plate bracket ALWAYS set of alarms in my mind. Do some research before hand on what to use and how to do it, search the threads here. Once you get started it is not as paramount or overwhelming as it first seems.

htillman · #3 01-04-2008, 07:59 PM

On my 23 Sceptre, I found the transom bad and some of the plywood on the bulkheads in the cabin. I decided to remove the top cap to access the transom and ease replacing the bulkhead boards. I turned to top upside down replace almost all of the wood in the cap with marine plywood. For the transom, I removed all wood from the inside, cleaned the transom and replaced the transom with Coosa board. Seems to be a good product, pricey but easy to use. If I did it over again I would go with a full transom and a bracket. Something you may want to consider. I used epoxy for the glass repairs. I am almost ready to install the top cap. Most users do not remove to top, if they replace from the inside they cut the back portion off (insulated boxes) alot do the replacement from the outside. Make sure you have a helper, a 4 1/2" side grinder and 40 grit spider disks and some 1/16" cutoff wheels for the grinder.

3rdday · #4 01-04-2008, 08:49 PM

et23,
What type of resin did you use/ or is reccomended with the coosa?

htillman · #5 01-04-2008, 09:37 PM

I used RAKA epoxy resin. Pretty decent price, others have recommended other varieties which I am sure are good and competitively priced. Raka did not blush to bad, no smell and you can put another application on once it sets to the point it is not tacky. Real easy people to work and they had all supplies.
I talked to the guys a Coosa and they told me to treat it just like plywood as fair as resins and sawing.

3rdday · #6 01-04-2008, 10:26 PM

If I understand.. you were able to hot bond layers after it lost its tack? That must be good stuff. usually you either have to wait for other resins to cure, wipe with wax remover or acetone and abbrade and add a layer

or put another layer on immediatly while it is still tacky.

htillman · #7 01-05-2008, 12:50 AM

I looked up there website and called them before I ordered it. The folks there said you can wet an area out, add a layer of glass impregnated with epoxy and let tack and add another layer. I have had good luck with this. Another member has an epoxy product that can also be hot coated. I think the website is US Plastics, they have good prices too. I was referred to Raka by a member as I had always used West System which blushed alot. Look around the website and you can find several recommendations on resins. Member Strick used polyester on his 20 for the most part and seemed to have good results and saved alot of money.