62-Racer Transom Help

[65Bowrider]

Our transom will be raised 5" for 25" shaft twins.
Using epoxy (better strength & adhesion to old fiberglass)

Ok, so use some thickened epoxy to fill air holes, then apply wetted 1.5 oz (not 3/4oz) mat to transom skin.

Then it's been recommended to add 2 layers of 1708 to transom skin to beef her up, bringing each layer 3" past previous layer. Can this be added soon after the mat, or will there not be enough time before mat sets? I've read/heard the chemical bond is the best.
And again, how to handle these big sheets? Just put sticky hands on all corners? or do you try to roll up then unroll on the transom? Amazing how much & how little I know!
Please keep the helpful hints coming ... Thanks.

[JohnB]

Too bad your not closer... will laminate for food and bait money
As for "wetting" out, I cut the piece to size, and used binder clips at the top to hold it in place, and folded the 1708 over the top. Than wetted down about 16" of inner skin with some slightly thickened epoxy to keep it from being runny. Folded the glass down over it, and then wetted it in from the inside. I did this 3 times, then, had to filet all the edges.

Hot laminating, one on top of the other is the way to go with epoxy, as soon as I got the first layer in, I was laying the next one on top of it. Doing it this way, the layer underneath is more or less wet, and it goes alot easier, but by the time I got done with 4 layers, it about killed me.

Maybe you could do it at once, but like I said, I did mine alone, so that was the only option.
As for wetting it out, I have used epoxy foam rollers, and plastic "blades". I would put the roller on a 45 angle, and pour a stream of epoxy on the roller as I went.
I liked the plastic blades in the corners, etc.
It is really hard to describe.

Tip, don't use the mixing plungers to measure in these amounts, use measuring cups.
Tip, get a couple boxes of gloves from harbor freight.
Tip, less is more. If you see something that is a little ugly, don't try to fix it, you will make it worse.
Tip, cut ALL the 1708 first, and start with the smaller pieces, overlaping 2-3" outward on each layer.
Tip, make sure your inner skin is clean and LEVEL. Mine was a mess from the factory.
Tip, if you have shoulder length hair, wear a hair net or plan on ripping it out, or getting it cut afterward
Tip, don't do this like I did during lovebug season.

Actually if you have any questions, pm me, I am not an expert, but have been down that road.

Here is what it looks like when it's done

Pulled the

[Briguy]

Invest in some full disposable body suits, hair nets and latex gloves. I can't tell you how many pairs of shorts/shirts I ruined and how many times I had to cut epoxy out of my hair after touching it.

Slower curing epoxy can help with the time issue but don't combine slow cure epoxy with cold weather.

[JohnB]

At about 40-45 degrees, epoxy will NOT kick, no matter what type you use or how you mix it. In Florida this isn't usually a problem. The sun does seem to kick it a little, I usually try to work in the shade.
In the summer, I put my epoxy jugs in ice water, and this keeps the pot life a lot longer, in the winter, I sometimes bring them in the house.

[65Bowrider]

How about some nice thick steaks on the grill and ice cold beer in the cooler ... will that temp you to join in?
Really nice "clean" job you did on your transom.

We're working in an airport hanger with S. Fla temps in the 70's.
Briguy, Good idea on the disposable suits ... and pleny of gloves.
JohnB, lots of great tips here. I like the idea of hanging the glass on the transom & wetting as you work down. Hadn't thought about the ice bucket to keep the epoxy cool, another good idea.

The medium drying epoxy (3-1 ratio) is good up to 80 degree temp, takes about 2 hrs to become tacky & ready for the next layer (per US Composites, fortunately close by). If that be the case, then can I use the same roller for all 3 layers on the same day, (one mat, 2-1708) or should I have separate rollers for each layer?
So many helpful hints here, I really appreciate it. Thanks!

[JohnB]

You will need several roller covers, probably a dozen and probably 2 rollers, unless you step on and break both of them, then you would need 3 and maybe 1/2 dozen of the green 6" plastic spreaders.

I used the MarineEpoxy from beateau for a variety of reasons, but one was it has no amine blush, like west system does. With west and others you should wait for each layer to harden, than clean the blush, then lay the next layer. You probably shouldn't hot coat, but check with the manufactures tech support, not me
Not all epoxies blush but I know for fact/experience west does/can, and MOS and the the MarineEpoxy from beateau hasn't when I used it. You might want to check that out. Those are the only ones I have used.

Also, some of the mat has a very thin styrine coating on it which makes it a pita to wet out with epoxy, but helps with polyglass. It doesn't hurt anything to use, but believe me, you can tell the difference if you have used both.

I know I sound like I am working for Beateau, but their products are specifically geared for epoxy, and they know what their talking about.

[htillman]

Go to Walgreens and buy 3 boxes latex gloves for $10. Buy your suits by the box if you can find them. Ones without hood are best. Cut strips where your pockets are if you are someone that tends to put stuff in pants pockets. Vinegar if using epoxy to clean up, isopropyl alcohol if you can get your hands on a couple gallons also helps. I am going on 12 gallons of epoxy - transom, all hatches, all bulkheads and most of the bow in a Sceptre. Latex gloves are cheap but go fast when working with the resins. Also different sizes of plastic pails to mix the epoxy in.

[ocuyler]

How about some nice thick steaks on the grill and ice cold beer in the cooler ... will that temp you to join in?

Carla - now I know why you wanted me to come over Saturday. Nice try!

[strick]

Good advice so far. I would epoxy one layer of biaxial on the old skin first and then with your core already pre made and ready next cabosil that to the still hot biaxial/cabosil on the old skin. Clamp that sucker in place so the cabosil gets squeezed out around the edges of core. I like 2x4's thru bolted into the transom then fillet all the voids around the core were it comes in contact with the hull. Let this all set up and then remove the clamps and start laying up the inside. I would use use biaxial and make the inner glass approx 1/4-3/8 inch thick. As far as how to work with large pieces of glass I usually cut it so it will drape over the transom and kinda hold itself up. Anyway you go about it it's still gonna be messy. I like to use OB sleeve (fingerless) with 2 latex gloves over my hands as that will keep the epoxy off your arms.




strick

[JohnB]

Be careful when you clamp/tie stuff down, that if epoxy gets on any of the clamps or through-bolts, you will learn exactly how strong epoxy is. This time, I put contact paper on the outer skin (had some laying around), and it was nice to not have to worry about spills/etc. I just peeled it of, and everything came off fine. Expoxy will soak through some of the masking tape that is out there, and you have to grind it back off.