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Ok, now that everyone else has given there take on trailers,
I will give you mine. My 20SF sits on a tandem axle galvanized Continental. On the set up there are 7 12in Stoltz rollers and 8 4in donut rollers. I used 14in galvanized 5/8 bolts on the 12in rollers and 4in 5/8 bolts on the 4in donuts. Every shaft was drilled in the center of the bolt head approx. 5 inches on the 12's and 2 inches on the 4's with an 1/8 inch dill bit, with an outlet hole and the end of the drilling. Then tapped for a zirc fitting that enables you to be able to pump grease into the roller shaft. I set up double 12 inch on the first cross member and the second. There is a 12 inch wide piece of rough sawn Cedar as a walk board the length of the trailer. Also a 912 Power Winch with a stainless cable that runs the length of the walk board. What this allows me to do is launch and load the boat by myself. It is truly a one man operation. ![]() I shot these pics in the barn just now... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Also the shafts (bolts) are tack welded on the heads to the frame. The biggest failure is when a roller seizes on the shaft and wears out the bracket. These rollers have not been touched in over 10 years. Just take grease gun to the ramp twice a year and juice em' up. I know the pics are over kill, but a picture to me is worth a thousand words.. ![]() You be the judge. Decide how you want to be able to come and go as you please. See ya, Ken
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See ya, Ken © |
#2
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#3
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The flost on aluminum trailers are so sweet, I drive mine on, Susan tightens the winch strap and we are out in less than 2 minutes. Mine is a Fast Load built in Plant City but Owens & Son makes agreat trailer too - maybe go to their websites to see what I mean - they are so sweet boys honest.
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Any way you measure it - dumbass is expensive |
#4
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Put on some rear guide posts and run her up the easy way.
They make a world of difference. GFS Maybe tomorrow it`1l stop blowin and I can practice my loading. |
#5
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I had to go waaay back to pull this subject - I have done nothing with this yet. But, after another hassle of loading her this past Fall, it's in my mind again.
I liked one of the ideas of moving the bunks inward more, but alas, on one side, that is exactly where my I/O raw-water and washdown intake/strainers are - so no go - the boat would not slide over these. I think that a "V" with rollers on the first cross member of the trailer might help the boat stay aligned. Anyone ever see anything like that ? That, and a pair of tall trailer guides along each side. |
#6
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![]() Frankly, it didn't work worth a crap. Whether I drove it on or winched it on it wouldn't line up consistently. Based on a thread here, I added keel bunks forward and as tight to the keel as possible. Here's what it looks like now. ![]() ![]() The keel bunks work so well at centering the boat on the trailer that I removed the alignment posts. They just weren't necessary anymore. If you can add keel bunks at least 5' long, and mount them just behind the point where the keel flattens out, the boat will center every time. And they shouldn't interfere with your raw water intake. Dave
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Blue Heron Boat Works Reinventing the wheel, one spoke at a time. |
#7
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Me Likey !
Do you have any problem getting the boat onto the trailer ? Not too much friction ? My boat is a hell of a lot heavier than yours. I know there are 5'-6' bunk rollers available. I wonder if I could use a pair of those on top of your "V" / keel bunk idea if that would help it: a) line up b) roll up smoother ? |
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