Teak

[Bushwacker]

[/QUOTE]Bushwacker: Have you had that beauty for 30 years?

[/QUOTE]

Bought it in 1975, so I guess it'll be 33 years in a couple of months. Found it at Brown & Hauptner Marine before Waterway Cafe was built on the site. Was a 1-owner boat; belonged to father of a guy I used to work with that had a 67 SeaCraft 21! It had spent some time in a covered rack building but he also kept it in water at son's house which explains the bottom paint. Dad was evidently a bit of a klutz with docking as there are a few spider cracks along gunnel from some dock walloping and one spot of barnacle rash on the gel coat, but otherwise it's in pretty decent shape. Bought it as-is and put a new 115 Evinrude on it which never quit on me the whole time I had it and was running good when I sold it. Just got tired of the noise, smoke and 2 mpg performance; after 30+ years I was ready for some newer technology! Deck is solid and when Don Herman filled in the transom, he said it was the driest one he'd ever seen in a boat that old! I did 2 things when I bought it that protected the transom:

The first was to follow Brown & Hauptner's practice of removing the aluminum trim around the transom cut-out and replacing the brittle polyester putty in the cap-to-hull gap with Life Caulk. They did this on all the new boats they sold. Also pulled out the baitwell inlet/outlet plug under port stern seat and resealed it, as it had started to leak.

Currently fixing up an old galley seat I got from 73Seafari. Hope to have it ready for Long Point gathering.

[GradySailfish]

Bushwacker, thats a great history with that boat. I'm sure she means a lot to you.

Joey, funny you say that, because I was under the impression that what I'm doing is "cheating" in that I'm too lazy to strip off all the old varnish and re-do with epoxy. I'm happy to hear that though, and look foward to the finish. I might be selling my Grady though and buying a 26 Fortier. We'll see, but either way I look foward to playing with the teak. Its a beautiful thing.

[gofastsandman]

I too miss teak on new boats. Sad trend. +^%$#@&* bean counters. Why not make it an option?

Ok Q&A time.
1 On thinner pieces,would it be a good idea to leave a little grain up after the 80 and get it as you go up in grit to leave more wood?

2 I have some nice badger brushes for future touches, but they have been used for alkyd round the house house paint. ok or no k?

3 Do I coat the back of flush mounted pieces?

4 When you re-coat in the future , do you just tape, sand, re-tape and hit it?

5 When shooting, hang w/ stiff wire in a screw hole and hit only the vertical plane or 360?

6 Overlap 50% of the pattern like cars?

7 I have acces to a compressor and was thinking of a Harbor Freight gun, do I need a Binks, or can I get good results w/ an unknown?

8 Le have a huge ficus tree 10 feet out the back door for shade, but is there a sweet temp at which to shoot it?

Thx, All!

Bushwacker that`s a wonderful love affair! Ever since I was a young child, I marveled at people who could do louvers.

I to think those caps are done that way on purpose. No marine AIA would do that. I`m rigged , how should I seal that?

GFS

[GradySailfish]

Gofast,

The brushes should be good as long as their clean. As a matter of fact, the older and more "used" they are the better they are, kinda like a baseball glove. I've been told to buy a good brush and take care of it and it will serve you well and last a long time.

As for spraying, I would not hang the pieces vertically, instead I would lay them down flush so that when you spray the paint it levels out as flat as possible.

The Harbor Freight guns are actually quite good. Although I have no personal experience with them, I know Warthog from ClassicMako uses them and is very happy with the results. I think the gun he uses sell for $ 69 bucks. Contact him for details.

When it gets a bit warmer I'll spray my teak.

Bushwacker, I can only imagine how attached you are to your boat after 30 years. I've had my Grady for 9 and I feel joined to the hip with her, so much so actually that I feel really bad about selling her to "upgrade" to a 26 Fotier.

AVK

[gofastsandman]

Thanks GSF,

How do I fix a hairline crack by a screwhole. It`s attached at both ends.

Joey was that Bristol Finish on the Jenna Mae?

Has anyone used Bristol Finish?

GFS

[joey]

Yes that's Bristle on the Jenna Mae,about 6 coats I think.I really like the stuff.You can recoat it in about an hour,you don't have to sand in between coats,it held up pretty well down here in the intense summer sun and after about 30days you can clear coat it if you want,but I didn't on the Jenna Mae.It's a two part varnish and goes on real nice with a sponge brush,I think it's about 60.00 a quart.
You can make a filler for the crack by mixing teak saw dust and a clear drying glue(I use Elmers)and just fill the crack,let it set up and sand it smooth.You will be able to see it,but it won't jump out at you like the crack would.

I just went and looked at the boat on my site and let me say that she has Bristle on the ToeRail,Transom,Helm Pod and Brow Cap.The covering boards and cockpit sole are teak and just oiled.

[gofastsandman]

Yeah, I was at their site and they have lots of tips and info.
Maybe that`s the way I`ll go. Did you use the honey or clear?
Any thoughts all? Thanks for the crack Capt.
GFS

[Bushwacker]

Has anyone used Bristol Finish?

In the PBR test reported in 2/05 issue, comments after 6 months on Bristol Finish were: "Film compromised underneath ends of panel". At end of test, they said "No comment because formulation changed", so maybe later versions are better. 6 mo. comments on Epifanes were: "Film intact. Still very good gloss. Some darkening."; end of test said: "Intact, smooth. A bit darker. PBR's top pick for shiny finish." On Honey Teak: @ 6 mo., "Film Intact. Wood grain seems more obscured."; Final: "Two-part pigmented stain darkened considerably."

What I like about the Epifanes is it's a 1 part deal, just open the can and apply. Both Honey Teak and Bristol Finish require a catalyst, which means you may waste some if you don't mix up the right amount. When I used the Honey Teak, I just mixed small batches using syringes, and made more as required to minimize wastage.