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#1
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Excellent project. I don't know how I missed it! The deck lamination is top notch. Thanks for shareing.
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#2
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well after ordering another boat load of supplies from Merton Fiberglass in MA.(no pun intended!) Joe has helped me out alot during this project, He is always willing to answer questions, I got started on some other projects . I got some MORE sanding done and fairing.
![]() started building the hatches and the access plates for the fuel sending unit and the pick up tube ![]() ![]() Duratec applied and first 2 skin coats of mat ![]() here you can see where I put the wood circles in for the latches ![]() after I applied another layer of mat, 3 layers of biaxial I layed out where the latches for the divynecel coring. ![]() the divynacel dry fitted. I know I didnt take many pics when I was laying up the deck so I figured I would take a bunch of pics of how to layer the coring ![]() here is the tile trowel again ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() They make a tool to bed the the coring but a Fein multimaster works fine to work the devilet putty up in the coring ![]() after I layed a layer of mat and 2 more layers of biaxal cloth I popped them out of the mold and cut MOST of the flashing off with a table saw. ![]() I did some research and bought a diamond tipped router wheel for my router from Bodi and went to work. This bit works perfect. You router around the top and it gives you a perfect flat surface on the bottom as it did. ![]() ![]() here is the flashing getting cut off ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() I drilled the inner hole for the latches ans did a little dry fit. I used a peice of 1/4 inch poplar ply for the circles ![]() ![]() I dry fitted the hatch to make sure it was going to fit! If I were to do it over I wouldnt have use the 1/2 wax radius putty I would have used the 1/4 to have a tigher fit. I can do it on the next boat! ![]() In the dry fit I still have to take a little off the bottom still to make it flush with the deck. ![]() I got my livewell from Tommy at Hammerhead boatworks, it is a really nice setup. Here are some pics ![]() drains on both sides ![]() ![]() He also put a 1 1/8 fitting in for me for more volume ![]() that is it for now I am trying to have the boat ready for primer after the weekend. till next time
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36' Yellowfin 1972 20' seacraft 140 suzuki http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ad.php?t=18607 |
#3
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great pictures. I am about to start my deck and transom replacments. Joe at Mertons is a great help and I am about to order my supplies from. I've known him for over 20 years.
Your pictures really help. I like the hatches but was wondering how you will keep water from going into bilge. |
#4
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the 1/4 flange that is on the deck side of the opening is going to get sanded on both sides of the middle so the middle portion will be a high spot in the when the latches on bith sides are swung closed it will pull the hatch down. I also ordered high grade gasket material for the hatchs to form a tight seal around the hatch.
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36' Yellowfin 1972 20' seacraft 140 suzuki http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ad.php?t=18607 |
#5
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Hey BTK . I need some gasket material and some dogs. What are you using? Nice work BTW.
Thx, GFS |
#6
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Hey GFS I got the latches from west marine they are boxed in a west marine box but they are Taco latches. I am probably going to use a gasket material from taco to. once I get the boat painted I will start looking around for the righjt gasket material.
Strick THat is correct I used the multimaster to bed the coring. THe bait tank is going in front of the console.since I shifted the console back I will have room in front of it. back to sanding and fairing.
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36' Yellowfin 1972 20' seacraft 140 suzuki http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ad.php?t=18607 |
#7
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Well I did a 8 hours of sanding today and did what is called "Poormans priming". I dont remember seeing it on here with all the restores. I learned this from a freind who had restored alot of boats. Basically from when I sanded the orginal paint of the boat there were some deep scratches from turning the sander on its side all over the hull. Here is what I did to smooth out the hull. I wiped the hull down with a wet rag with water to remove the dust. I went to my work truck and took out a half gallon of PVC primer. I dumped some in a mixing cup and with a rag wiped down the whole hull. I let it dry for about 5 minutes and went to down with the 220 on the palm sander with vaccum hook up.
![]() ![]() ![]() here it shows where the deep scratches are ![]() ![]() here is shows scattered all over ![]() I filled them all with Evercoat smooth glaze. being that they are so shallow ![]() finally ordering paint this week and hopefully priming by the end of the week. ![]() here is a shot of the pie plates in place that will acess the sending unit and the pick up tube. ![]() Not much to look at but I figured a couple of you guys would like the primer trick. Its cheap and effective.
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36' Yellowfin 1972 20' seacraft 140 suzuki http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ad.php?t=18607 |
#8
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Man you are fast.
Thx for the info. notsofastsandman |
#9
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Those latches are really nice. So the Multimaster was used to vibrate the bedding into the coring? Were is the bait tank going to be installed? great work on the hatches!
strick
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"I always wanted to piss in the Rhine" (General George Patton upon entering Germany) |
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