Started 20' upgrade and restore

WillyC · #1 04-23-2008, 10:42 AM

Billythekid,
I've got a quick question for you. Is the pvc primer that purple stuff that comes with the pvc glue and do you have to sand the stuff off (in the low spots) before you fill with fairing compound. Thanks -will

billythekid · #2 04-23-2008, 06:24 PM

Will yes it is the same primer that you get with pvc glue. I think the dykem(spelling?) is darker and might be better for the job. I have an endless supply of primer. The first side I used a rag (make sure you were gloves) The second side I rolled it on with a 6 inch mini roller and it went on much darker and much easier. I would advise taking a pencil circling the low spots and then sand the primer off. I had a little problem with bleed through on my Awlgrip 545 primer. As Strick says " Nothing a little Primer cant fix!" I just had to lay two more addition coats over it to cover.

billythekid · #3 04-24-2008, 10:58 PM

I rolled the boat outside today for a bunch of wet sanding, and who ever siad you cant get sunburn in april in NJ was wrong. I got about 80% of the boat wet sanded so another half day and we will be ready. Paint came in today along with another gallon of primer and converter that I went and picked up this morning. So that make alomst a $1000 in paint.

billythekid · #4 04-30-2008, 11:04 PM

Before painting the boat I put the non skid down on the topsides Before I did it I had to spend a whole day taping everything off with vinyl tape. This was an extremely long processs to get right. It only took a half hour to put it down.

here is my homemade salt shaker its a quart can from home depot

here is the nonskid getting applied. I used a foam roller and used the salt shaker to apply the nonskid to get and even spread.

here is the vinyl tape getting removed. the reason for the vinyl tape is it prevents bleed through. It is sold at any automotive store.

While I am waiting for paint,I decided cut a bunch of holes in the console for all the rigging I also cut a bunch of holes in the boat. I decided I didnt want the flange on the console and I wanted it shorter. so I cut 3 inches off of the console and I am much happier with the way it looks

here is my home made scribe tool. this is what I used to scribe the console around for an even line

I used a some screw as a set screw to hold the pencil

out came the trusty diamond tipped router bladed

here is what is left of the flange

here is the flange cutoff and the console flush to the deck.

after looking at this pic I can tell it made a big difference cutting 3 inches off. I am going to layup a reverse flange on the inside of the console. for mounting purposes. The boat looks pretty slick.

the interior is getting sprayed saturday morning.
until next time

65Bowrider · #5 05-02-2008, 09:29 AM

Doing a great job & she's turning out looking super!
On the non-skid, did you shake & THEN roll with foam roller?
I've seen the shaker method before, but it never came out evenly, whereas yours did ... nice work.

billythekid · #6 05-02-2008, 06:03 PM

65 bowrider I rolled and shaked and then rolled again. It went really quickly. It is all in the prep work!

billythekid · #7 05-02-2008, 09:51 PM

Gome some work done after real work this afternoon.I put the console down on a piece of formica to laminate against. I laid up the flange on the inside the console with 3 layers of 1708 and a 2 layers of mat. It was a pain in the ass to work inside the console laminating. I taped the outside of the console and went to work

popped it off the formica. out came the diamond tipped router blade and it made shrt work of the flashing.

I left a little over 2 inches to screw through

after adding a couple more mounting points inside the console I decided I wanted it white on the inside. so I taped off all the holes and mixed up a quart of epoxy primer

tomorrow is paint in the inside then I can non skid the floor and rig the inside of the boat.

datngrizz · #8 07-25-2008, 02:27 PM

I am starting work on my '78 20' MA console now and like what Billy did reversing the flange. My console has the cooler/seat in front of the console so reversing the flange would make it impossible to get screws in. Anyone addressed this problem or have an approach for securing the front portion of the console? I could not find any strings addressing it.

I thought if I screwed the back portion down under the console and bedded the front cooler in 5200 with the cooler full of water to keep it bedded until the 5200 set I would probably be OK.

Thoughts? THX!

DaTNGrizz

BigLew · #9 07-25-2008, 05:37 PM

A quick idea. (I don't like 5200. In my opinion, it is used much too often and ends up costing more time and aggravation than it's worth. But I do admit it has its place.)

Consider this. Make a base that is screwed down/permanently attached to the deck where you are going to 5200 the cooler into place. On top of that you can devise a mount or tray for the cooler. Then, the cooler can come on and off as needed or is convenient. You can design it in such a way that it will overlap the flange of the console and not limit you in pulling ot moving the console if you need to.

If you decide to change your mind/configuration later, it is only a matter of removing that base (probably a few bolts through the deck.) Just my 2¢.

datngrizz · #10 07-26-2008, 11:28 AM

THX for the post...The cooler is molded into the console..one continuous piece and forms the seat in front of the console. But your post gave me an idea, perhaps I can screw some stingers/angle into the deck that go between the outside and iside of the cooler's sides and secure it with some screws fromvthe outside.