Transom Re-Build Check List...

[Islandtrader]

Thanks Denny on the holes...I forgot about that. Clamping was a given.

What I meant by epoxy and bed was, I will use a 2 different products by System 3. One being gelmagic (pre mixed cabosil)that will "glue" the core to the transom. Second product called Silvertip EZ fillet. The core will be set into it (sides and bottom), then I will fillet the edges, and have a nice radius to lay the cloth over.

Anybody else out there have any thoughts?

[1bayouboy]

Did the 1708 have a layer of 3/4 mat?? If so was was it against transom and PW core? Is mat needed between layers of 1708??

[Bushwacker]

Yes, the 1708 had mat on one side. Not sure if it's absolutely required but it probably can't hurt. As I remember, the mat side was always put up against the previous layer, starting with original transom skin. We used 1.5" Coosa board core instead of plywood. Used cabosil for both bedding and fillets around edge of core, radius about size of a quarter. I believe we used 4 layers of 1708/mat on both sides of the core, with all layers wrapping around into bottom and sides of hull; I think first layer went about 18" forward of transom, with each subsequent layer a couple of inches shorter than previous one. You can check Carla's original post for photos and more details. Resulting transom is at least 2" thick . . . should be plenty stout enough to handle either twins or a big single! Dan also recommended using SS or bronze sleeves on all engine mount bolts so that sleeves would take most of the compressive bolt load, allowing the glass & core to take primarily shear and bending loads.