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#1
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took out the old alum. tank that i think was a 100 gallon and in the process of having a new one built. Under the tank was a sheet of marine plywood and that was glassed in and was and wet and water logged. I took all of this out and now i was wondering what to put back. What size should the marine plywood be that i will glass back in place. It seems that you don't have much of a window hear because if you build it up too much you will not be able to put the deck back. I will try to take some pics and put them up. Thanks for the help
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#2
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Justhecks,
I reocmmend that you check out this website address: http://www.yachtsurvey.com/fueltank.htm Regarding the plywood "deck," 5/8-3/4" ply should do it. Just be sure that it is well sealed with epoxy; up to and including a vacuum bagging of the the epoxy application. After that about the only thing that may cause a problem is sand or grit getting between the treated/epoxied plywood and the inside of the hull where it will come in contact and the areas of contact between the plywood and the tank. The weight of the tank with gas in it should not move much and neither should the plywood and the inside of the hull. Only if the wear at these contact areas become severe enough to penetrate through the epoxy sealed wood is when bad things begin to happen. Good luck.
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Getting home is more important than getting there! Plan accordingly! |
#3
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This was an old post but you get the idea. My thought was to replace the plywood with some new fangled product but went back with original plywood.
"This week I replaced my tank from a 1975 23 C/C. The old tank was sitting on a piece of 1/2in plywood with roving on the up side. The original tank had three 1in. strips of rubber running long ways. My issue was the filler hose rusted and leaked when putting gas in. To replace the filler hose and vent hose I figured since I was in there I'd replace the tank. The old tank had one corner that was showing signs of leaking. I used the original plywood and put the new tank in yesterday. The new tank is 96 gallons and was built by RDS in Perry Fl. at a cost of 450.00"
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70% of the earths surface is covered by water...It's going to be a very long day...Florida Marine Patrol. |
#4
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The link above kinda bugged me...wouldn't it be better to run the strips the length of the tank with 1/4 inch or more before the end of the tank? That way water would run down the length of the tank/plastic and not have the plastic act as a baffle? I am only askiing because I will be putting my tank back in in a couple of months. It tto sat on t he deck of the coffin with no spacer under/between it and the fiberglass. Any others with experience/recommendation. OBTW, any other spacer material recommended besides Haysite? THX!
DaTNGrizz |
#5
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I used Lexan with 5200 per the link instead of Hysite.
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#6
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Did you go the length of the tank or width?
DaTNGrizz |
#7
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My plan is to run 5-7 1/2" UHMW strips under the tank. I can't decide if I want to 5200 (well, actually PL roofing silicon since it's the same stuff chemically and about 25% the cost) the strips to the epoxies plywood or tank itself.
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#8
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Are you talking the PL-1 stuff....it's an polyurethane expansion joint compound...
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#9
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I am going to go the length of the tank
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#10
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Bayou - Was that question for me? Here is what I learned from another boat site (tolman - fishyfish.com):
I can't seem to tell the difference between PL Premium Polyurethane Roof and Flashing Sealant and 3M 5200 Marine Sealant. The Pl is about 1/3 the price so I've been using it. The only downside is the I've only found the PL Roof and Flashing sealant in black color. It's every bit as messy as 3M 5200, so it pays to mask off all the non sealed areas. |
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