![]() |
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Quote:
![]() ![]() ![]()
__________________
![]() ![]() 1978 23' Superfish/Potter Bracket 250HP -------- as "Americans" you have the right to ...... "LIFE, LIBERTY and the PURSUIT of a Classic SeaCraft" -capt_chuck |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
diamer chuck,lol
![]()
__________________
"Lifes too short to own an ugly boat" |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
My last boat had a 350 inboard. I put on over 1200 hours before I even changed the stuffing box. I ran that engine at 34-3600 rpm. Top rpm around 5000. Never a problem.
I use watch the drip and adjust it when ever it was necessary...and that was hardly more than a few times a year. Better to have to much drip than not enough.
__________________
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] "If You Done It...It Ain't Braggin" my rebuild thread: http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ad.php?t=18594 |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
I have a friend with a SEE VEE 25' and he keeps it on a lift in his backyard and one day when lowering it from the lift he noticfed a lot of water in his bilge, a screw fell out and it could have sunk. I am like Miles Offshore (Craig) and believe old method is better
__________________
GARY 76 SEACRAFT CC INBOARD |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
I think we have finally broken it in. While we still have to leave it dripping slightly for it to stay cool, it does not heat up anymore like it did. Soon I think we will be able to stop the drip and have it be fine. Thanks for all the help. Traditional is always the way to go in my book.
|
#6
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
has to drip, that`s how it cools it.
|
![]() |
|
|