My 23

[ripndip]

I know it's not a Classic Classic as in Potter built, but how many of you can say yours is truly a Potter built at this point? It is more likely a (your last name here) built at this point in the game. Transoms, decks, wiring, engines, customization; just go ahead and put your last name in front. Unless you happen to find that garage kept, rarely used boat, most 20-30 year old boats in use have suffered some rot or other damage, usually always from unsealed previously "added" holes.

[strick]

I know what you mean. I have several strickcraft's sitting around here. Nice boat. I like your dash lay out. Whats that little walkie talkie looking thing? Is it some sort of vhf?

strick

[3rdday]

Strick , I believe it is a remote, looks like one for autopilot, perhaps wireless vhf remote. one or the other, again, I believe.

[ripndip]

strick,

That is autopilot, a Raymarine S1000 system for boats 25' and under. I have it interfaced with my GPS, so I "Goto" a waypoint, sync it, and it takes me there. It does take batteries, AAA's, which I carry spares of and seem to last for about 8-10 hrs. of use. Raymarine calls it a "fishing" autopilot so it has strategies to zig-zag, circle, or cloverleaf a spot.

[strick]

10-4 thanks fellas

strick

[seafari25]

how many of you can say yours is truly a Potter built

Nice boat Ripndip,

I am proud to say that our 25 is truly a Potter built. She will be 34 in May. There will come a day when some major restoration will be required but she will always remain, IMO a Potter built. I'm not going to try to take credit for someone elses genious. We have to give credit where credit is due. If it wasn't a Potter to begin with, I'm sure these fellows wouldn't have done what they have done to make these boats new again.

This is just my opinion.

[Islandtrader]

With out Moesly...no Potter Built

[peterb]

Ripndip,

What did you end up doing with the prop selection? Also, what size are your Yamaha's and what are your performance numbers?

I am running twin 200 OX66's right now.

I probably get about 1.6 to 1.7 MPG at cruise (unless it is real snotty out). And my WOT is probably around 54MPH. Just curious as I may end up with the HPDI's one day.

Thanks,

Peter

[lost2a6]

With out Moesly...no Potter Built

Amen brother.

[ripndip]

Peter B,
I switched the lower units turning the props inboard instead of outboard- if you decide to try this the engine toe will have to be changed from 1/4" toed out (what is normal) to 1/4" toed in to compensate for the pressure the prop direction places on the engine. Your steering tie bar should be adjustable. The theory is the 1/4" of slack is taken up when running making them close to dead straight. If you don't do this, it will be squirrelly.

My engines are 04 150 HPDI's. I am "squared up" 3000= 30 mph 4000= 40 mph, for the most part. I have 6" setback jackplates, and have moved weight forward to compensate. I consistently get between 2.0 and 2.5 mpg, with 1.9 mpg at wide open 53-5400 and 53-54 mph. These are real gps numbers. In perfect conditions a couple weekends ago I got 55.6mph on gps full fuel, cold weather with 15kt tailwind and chop on top. The boat will always do at least 52.

I was going to try a new set of props, but after switching the lower units and replacing the Bennett 12x12's with Lenco 12x16 heavy duty I am much happier. The boat does not want to porpoise at all, even with more weight forward, and fuel consumption is slightly better, ride MUCH better. The engines run up faster, and turn slightly more RPM's. I can also finally have a slower plane speed of 23-24 mph by laying the tabs down. Also, this combination helped with the problem that caused me to switch the drives back out (I spun them in for almost a year) in the first place- prop blowout in heavy seas/slow/coming down the back of one wave going up the face of the next. I have tried this setup in some pretty rough stuff and it has completely lost that problem. I am currently spinning 21P Mercury Laser II's.

Regarding your boat, I am surprised it isn't considerably faster. The few 23's I've talked to with T200's had easy 60mph + top speeds (23P props). The OX66's weren't known as "speed" engines like some of the old two stroke Merc's but are good dependable engines, and still should have the two stroke power band. You mentioned earlier how you have spun a few 21's, I think SWS. SWS are great, high quality props, but they ran TERRIBLE on my boat. I think the large diameter and big blade surface area are too much for a 23' boat (remember your spinning two of them) in that they seemed to "manhandle" my boat. Any trim out at lower RPM made the boat into a porpoise stunt boat. Tabs were necessary to run smoothly in calm water/stop porpoising. Also, the entry angle of the V must have been slightly off because rather than slice through boat wakes like it does now, it would slam/jar/breaking glass with the SWS through what it eats up now. I require NO tabs to run my boat in calm water at any normal planing speed with the current setup.

I would also be curious what mounting height your at. The rule of thumb I've heard of is for every foot back from the end (bottom) of the transom, the cavitation plate should be 1" higher. My manual jackplates are adjusted as low as possible without interfering with my steering ram, but this still leaves the cavitation plates approximately 1" higher than the bottom of the boat for only 6" setback. I experimented with higher settings, but like the performance best at this setting. Higher settings make the boat faster, the tradeoff is possible lack of water pressure, more likely to blow out in turns or heavy seas.

In your setup, I would check mounting height and consider trying a smaller diameter prop in 21P spun inboard. The 23 Seacraft is a heavy, solid glass boat. Spinning the props in give stern lift, which on a lighter boat could be dangerous- I heard Contenders just can't do it. Jupiter and Island Runner have been doing it for years.

Unfortunately there are a lot of variables to consider, all of which can make substantial differences- props spun in, mounting height, toe, prop diameter, number of blades, etc. I have done a lot of experimenting with these factors (except the four blades) because I'm passionate about my boat. Unfortunately for you and I, we don't have anyone to cheat off of like a 31' Jupiter where someone has already tried everything.

Aside from smaller diameter, I seem to have better performance from props with little or no visible cup. I don't know the reason for this, but the three props that ran the best were Michigan Rapture (first set I tried after 19P SWS that came on the boat), OLD Mirage 21P- not Mirage Plus (hard to find, 15yr old prop, slightly too much prop but ran great), and the Laser II's (best yet).

I'm not sure what tabs your running, but the 12x16's are unbelievable in comparison to the 12x12's. The one down side to the Lenco's is they are kicking up spray in some conditions.

Probably the best advise I can give you is not to listen to any one "expert" unless he has the exact same boat/setup as you. If I would have listened to 98% of the advise given when I was contemplating the first second set of props, I would have left the boat alone with its porpoising, slamming, 49 mph tops and crappy fuel consumption. Everyone that goes fishing with me (some very seasoned captains in the group) is amazed at the ride, speed, and fuel burn at which I am able to run comfortably in my little 23.

It is IMPOSSIBLE to say how your boat will act without trying these things. The lower unit swap is free, just your time. Let me know if there is any other info I can help with.

S