(re) Thinking about buying a 1973 Seafari.

[Fr. Frank]

So more opinions on the Force out board would be appreciated. If it starts easy, runs great, and the compression checks out, is it still a P.O.S.?

Lets just assume all is good including motor. What is fair market value(as if there is more than one of these in my town)? What is a good/screaming deal?

Same question, no motor?

The motor is not worth much monetarily. But for someone who is on a tight budget, it's a great temporary deal-maker. IF, I say IF the motor can be proved to have been competently rebuilt (with receipts) in the last 180 days, it's worth $800-$1000. Other wise, it's worth $400-$500 if it tests out in great condition.

For those who sneer at Chrysler/Force motors, here's a tidbit: According to Mercury Marine, as a percentage of overall production, there are more 30+ year old Chrysler outboards in the 100-125 hp range still running than any other brand. In fact, if you take any given year from 1966 all the way through 1984, there is a higher percentage of Chrysler motors in the 1.5 to 2.0 liter range still running than any other brand for the same years. (please note that statistic does not apply after 1984)

That translates into the fact that the Chrysler 100-103 cubic inch/1.6-1.7L four cylinder outboard design is the most reliable outboard motor ever built in the 1.5L to 2.0L displacement range as measured over three decades or more of use.

(BTW, according to an October '08 Mercury press release, the new most reliable current-production motor in the 1.4-2.0 liter size is the Mercury Optimax 1.5L 75-115hp 2 strokes, followed by the Suzuki 2.0L 100-140hp four strokes. The source they quoted was an NMMA sheet that also stated that for 2.1-3.0L, it's the Evinrude eTec 150hp, and for 3.1L and above, it's the Suzuki 3.6L 4-strokes again. Mercury does not make an engine bigger than 3.0L Optimax. Even the prototype Mercury 400 hp I-6 Verado motors are only 2.6L)

The Chrysler/Force is also the noisiest, most smoky, and sometimes most finicky motor. If you mess with the carburetor settings, you will likely NEVER get it right again short of complete rebuild of the carburetors. If you run the best oil, and run the fuel mix at 44-1, instead of 50-1, it will last a long, long time. If the motor was on the back of a little bass boat, 50-1 mix would be fine. But one the back of a 2000 lb Seafari, run a little richer oil mix to keep the bearings cool.

I had twin 105 Chryslers on my 25' Mako back in the mid 70's. They were the most reliable outboard motors I ever had. (The only other motor to come close was my '92 Merc 150 xR2) One or those 105's hated to start cold, the other hated to start hot. Choke the snot out of the cold-starting motor to begin the day, start the other motor at WOT only once it was warmed up. But they never, ever let me down. I don't know anyone who used these motors on a regular basis who didn't like them. Just the folks who used their boats 4 or 5 times a season and then never maintained them.

Now the downside:
Some Chrysler/Force parts are getting harder to come by, even though most of them are still available from Mercury. They are not really salt-water motors. If you run in salt, you must spray down the powerhead with WD40 or CRC after every time you run, or spray with FluidFilm or other corrosion preventative frequently. (I use FluidFilm).

Water pressure is essential in the Chrysler/Force motors. My current Merc 90 develops 8-10 lbs pressure underway, and briefly develops 28 lbs prior to the thermostat and poppet valve opening. I used to get 15-25 lbs of water pressure in my 1976 Chryslers, although I understand the newer Force motors only needed 10-12 lbs.

With the Chrysler/Force motor, water pressure is life!!. Change the impeller every year, or every 100 hours, whichever comes first. Change it again if you suspect the pressure is low, or if you sneeze in the direction of the motor. (You get the idea)

NEVER, NEVER run without a thermostat. You will have inadequate water pressure on the top cylinder. If you do get this boat, you should immediately replace the impeller AND the thermostat, after first verifying the new thermostat works at the advertised temperature.

Do this, and then you can use the boat safely while looking for that DEAL for your eventual repower.