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#1
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Related question to this link....
if my boat sits in driveway with a full tank of fuel and I run it on the hose once a week for about 10 minutes at a time...should I use a fuel stabilizer etc. in the fuel..or is this mainly for people up north that winterize boats for long periods of time and do not have a chance to start motor?? I am able to take out boat approx 1 time every two months!
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"...Southern by the grace of God" |
#2
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From what I'm told, those of us still pre-mixing oil have no problems. It's all oil-injected motors that have the issue. Add fuel injection and things get worse.
I went all season with a smoky, carb'd pre-mix Evinrude that didn't hiccup once even after sitting at the slip for 3-4 weeks. |
#3
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YAY PRE-MIX!!!!! i love my old motor. it just sat for 2 months and besides the overheating had no fuel issues.
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#4
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This is absolutely freaking ridiculous! Fiberglass tank replaced on my 15 Whaler with [censored] in my fuel injectors! 10 micron Racor seperator not enough! Another 15 being rebuilt now. Custom aluminum fuel tank again! Can't even imagine whats in my 79 SeaCraft, but 70 gallons. Pumped out three years ago, by me, and found no problems. I don't rebuild my own carbs, and cost is out of control! Every kind of additive known to man. This is absolutely NUTS! Whats it going to take? News says that ethanol production is more costly than barrels of foreign oil, AND electric cars! I can't even keep my freakin' Stihl running! COME ON!!!
Sorry for the RANT but replacing fuel cells, custom built with todays prices on metal, additives up the arse, and outboard warranties that don't want to hear CRAP? What are we supposed to do? I'm sorry...maybe I have too many gas powered toys and tools. Just HAD to let it go...Part II. |
#5
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Fred - I would always use a fuel stabilizer, even if you weren't running ethenol. The oxygenated fuels that were developed a few years ago to reduce emissions seem to break down pretty quickly otherwise, even if they don't have alcohol in them. The alcohol just makes it worse by adding the phase separation problem, disolving any crud in the tank and attacking any rubber or plastic parts that aren't designed for it. The E-Tec's are supposed to be ok with up to 10% alcohol, and so far I've had zero problems. I did pull the tank and clean it real good when I repowered, and I've tried to avoid ethanol as much as possible, but looks like those days are over! Will switch to Startron from Stabil when I start buying E10. One factor that helps the DI engines is that the fuel system (except for the fuel in the tank) is sealed, so fuel is not exposed to oxygen, which should help it last a little longer.
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'72 SeaFari/150E-Tec/Hermco Bracket, owned since 1975. http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...Part2019-1.jpg |
#6
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Just got back from Boaters World and picked up a bottle of Startron and a Racor Gas/H2o separator filter. I hope looking and seeing what is going into my motor will help me keep up with the potential problems. At lease I will feel better at the gas station when I fill up in the future.
I am thinking of keeping my old filter with the canister in the bilge and installing the Racor on the transom where I can see it and deal with it easy. That would be a total of 3 filters. One in the bilge with regular filter in it, then the Racor on the transom and then there is the filter in my Yahama engine. I also have a Standard brand fuel scan meter hooked up on this fuel line as well which gives me readings like GPM, total gallons per trip. I almost forgot the fuel bulb which I squeezed once in 7 years. Could this be a problem getting my fuel to the motor with all this extra stuff???? FellowShip Just for the Grins ![]() |
#7
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If the filters are clean, they offer very little resistance.
I run a 2 filter system, one with the bowl to keep an eye on things, and one on the motor that has a water sensor/alarm. I think 3 might be a little over the top. I NEVER find anything in the second filter. |
#8
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Question concerning I/O potential problems. YES there are problems.
A. When you first start using Ethanol enhanced fuel, any crud in the tank finds it's way very quickly to the filters and engine. B. 10 Micron Filter is a must. C. Initial service frequency about 25 Hours. You will surprised at the amount of crud you will find in the filter. D. YOU MUST UPGRADE ALL FUEL LINE, FILL AND VENT LINES IMMEDIATELY. They will get real SOFT and Fall Apart. Not a Pretty sight, all that gas in the bilge. E. If you have a fiberglass tank, REPLACE immediately. F. Marginal Aluminum Tank REPLACE Immediately. Any marginal areas or deep pit 's will be eaten thru by the ethanol. For all you old timers remember when midgets and indy cars never filled their tanks until the race. The fuel was ethal alchol/ethanol. G. ONLY BUY FUEL FROM A HIGH VOLUME STATION. Fuel will phase seperate at the station if they do not get a delivery at LEAST ounce a week. H. Infrequent use will lead to problems. If you only us your boat every other week you are in trouble. I. STAR TRON IS NOW YOUR WAY OF LIFE. USE CONSTANTLY!!!! Blew two NEW 3.0liter Mercruiser's in one year when this stuff first came out. BOBBERT |
#9
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YUP!
When I restored my boat I made sure to install a stainless filter head, 2 Micron Filter water seperator with clear bowl & purgevalve, Goodyear ethanol resistant fuel Line with Dupont Flouroelastomer lining, Fill Hoses and vent hoses , ethanol proof. Here is a link http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Goody...QQcmdZViewItem BTW Autozone has the fuel hose, it is often called Fuel injection hose. I also went with Poly Tanks so I would never have to worry about corrosion. Aluminum tanks will also "perspire" internally especially here in Florida with the frequent temperature swings. Any marine mechanic will tell you the ethanol problems are increasing at a very high frequency. You guys with carbed engines will see what looks like corrosion / crust etc in the carbs and carb bowls,My buddy has a newer carbed Yamaha and it is wreaking havoc on his outboard. I would store boa with as little fuel as possible even if only for a week or two.
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I heard it on the coconut telegraph.......... |
#10
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I use my boat infrequently, and I can no longer buy pure gas without ethanol, unless I go to Dunnellon Airport and buy 100 octane unleaded for $3.95 a gallon, or drive 78 mile RT and buy Sunoco 100 race gas in Ocala. It's currently $3.23 gal.
I have a Racor filter, and I drain a quart or more of separated alcohol and water every time I use it. I have new tank, lines, fittings, etcetera, but lately my boat is lucky to hit the water once every 90 days or so. My Merc dealer suggested SeaFoam added at every fill-up, 1/2 oz per gallon, or use the new formula Sta-Bil designed for ethanol fuels.
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Common Sense is learning from your mistakes. Wisdom is learning from the other guy's mistakes. Fr. Frank says: Jesus liked fishing, too. He even walked on water to get to the boat! Currently without a SeaCraft ![]() (2) Pompano 12' fishing kayaks '73 Cobia 18' prototype "Casting Skiff", 70hp Mercury |
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