Brass scupper tube install

[McGillicuddy]

John123,

I suppose it's been done a number of ways but since you've already replaced the blocks and sealed the scuppers sleeves with epoxy you may as well use 5200 to bed them and seal them. I think the flexibility of that adhesive will be more forgiving, adhere to the brass and sleeve better, and provide a better seal over time than epoxy.

Good luck.

[bigeasy1]

McGillicuddy,
Thanks,I was leaning towards the 5200.
What I should have done,when i had the entire rear cap,deck,and transom out(it's an I/O)was to run the drains out the transom.
It still eats away at me that I didn't,but now,everything is finished,and back together,and there's is no way I'm going to attempt that.
I'll leave it stipulated in my will,that My children can not sell it,and that they have to change the scuppers out the transom.
That should keep em busy for a while.

[McGillicuddy]

I think Bushwacker had overdrilled his holes and blocks for the purpose of both rebuilding the wood blocks with GitRot and then re-drilled the 1 inch holes - effectively making an epoxy sleeve to place the brass in. That way if the brass ever fails again, the deck and hull are are still sealed from water intrusion through the wood block by the epoxy tube that connects them.

Kind of made me wonder why not forgo the the brass sleeve all together and just make a bigger f-glas and epoxy tube?

Great idea on the will by the way, too many kids cough up their parent's prized possessions without thinking what it really meant to the family. Heritage, ancestry, history of the family, man. That's what an inheritance should be about. The legacy of the Family Seacraft... Sounds like youve got it down in the Berkshires

[Bushwacker]

Yea, Gillie, the holes in my wood blocks were about 2" in diameter after I cleaned out all the rot! So I just sealed bottom of hole, filled the whole thing with thickened epoxy, and then redrilled the hole, but I did use a lot of 5200 on the brass tubes. You do have a good point about eliminating the brass that will eventually corrode. I considered PVC like Big Shrimpin used, but that reduces flow area which I didn't want to do . . if you ever get a big wave over the transom, you're gonna want to get that water out ASAP! The brass tubes were easy and allowed min wall thickness and max flow area, so decided to stick with original configuration. I had previously replaced those tubes about 30 years ago, so I'll let the next owner worry about the ones I just did a couple of years ago! If I was redoing the boat however, I'd go with the Moesly design with the scupper lines crossing under deck and draining out transom on opposite side of boat. Denny

[Gary Hill]

Ken (FELLOWSHIP),
Did you consisder cross draining?

[FELLOW-SHIP]

Ha Knot Working

??? what?? Have I been sleep posting again?

Maybe I have old timers disease.

I have heard of cross dressing but I don’t do things like that.


FellowShip

………………………

Just for the Grins

Official Antique Classic SeaCraft Owner

[Gary Hill]

FELLOW-SHIP,
I guess you are aging.
Nice reply.
As usuall.