Stern lifting prop for 20 MA with bracket

[McGillicuddy]

Not really a prop guru but...

A "little heavy in the rear" is probably an understatement! These boats were designed for ~300 lb motors hanging on the transom, so when you put a 400+ lb motor on them and then move it 30" aft, it's no surprise that they don't perform as designed! Don't know what your motor weighs, but it's probably similar to my E-Tec which is about 427.

In fact depending on the model it's 475 to 539lbs. Sir, dare I say it, your seacraft is seriously suffering from stern squat Check the model of your current ptprop. By dimensions and appearance I'd guess its a PTC3 or RAS3, or an SFS3 ("Baby OFS"). I may be way off, but it should say on the prop. Check it to get an idea of what the prop is designed to do.

The PTC and RAS are a bow-lifters like the Rapture or Stiletto. Definitely not what you want. The SFS is similar to the Yamaha Saltwater series and would probably be fine if not for the extra 175 lbs set 30" off the stern like a bully on the teeter-totter. That in a four blade might help you.

Even better, you might consider an MQS3 which is a stainless stern-lifter in the mold of Mercury's Black Max. I have seen them on a website for a little over $300, plus the hub. It's a 14.00" wheel in 19 pitch and 14.50" in 17", and it is considered easy to turn. The the extra blade surface area should help to lift that heavy stern load. I am not sure if they make a 4 blade MQS for your motor but its certainly worth ascertaining. but I think the MQS is less costly and would better serve you. Also their SCE3 and SCE4 are stern-lifting semi-cleavers that mimic Yamaha's own semi-cleavers. Probably also decent choices. Good Luck

[Old'sCool]

I installed a Solas 4 blade 17p on 22' Whaler w/225 Yam. It made a world of difference! I could plane at a much lower speed and gave up very little top end. I think you should keep the tabs and modify the bracket so they fit.

[fdheld34]

So many choices in prop configurations especially when engine weight has increased compared to what hull was designed for!!!. My head is spinning from all the great above input. Again printed out above info for my Classic Seacraft "Folder of Knowledge". Beats having to search in future........

I think you might need to hold on to your tabs as well!!!!!!
-Fred

[bartt]

Thanks to everyone for their very helpful insights.

In response to McGillicuddy my current prop is a PTC3 in which you state is a bow lifter, so getting more of a stern lifting prop should be a big help. All in all, the boat handles pretty well as is, but as I said in my 1st post it would be nice to stuff the bow in more at slower speeds on choppy days.

In response to Bushwacker, thanks for the info. I think I will try the Michigan 4 blade Alu. I found them for about a $130 on the web.... somewhat of a cheap way to experiment. And to EggSuckingDog, I will fool around with the motor height as it has a manual jack plate and should be easy to try different positions.

For all those suggesting I keep the tabs and notch the bracket, I just don't think it is physically possible to do. I'll attach a pic so you can see what I'm dealing with. If I mount the tabs close to the sides of the tub of the bracket I would have just enough room to mount the top end of the piston just below the bracket edge. And the tab would have to be at the same level plane to the bottom of the boat, I was told proper mounting of the tab should be above level when fully retracted. I was also told the tabs mounted in this position would be to close to the center of the boat and would disturb the water for the prop. I just don't believe I'll have enough verticle height on the transom to move the tabs further to the outsides of the boat even with the bracket notched. See the pic below. Any thoughts or suggestions would be very welcome. Maybe I'm just not seeing it the right way.

Thanks,
Bart

[Capt Chuck]

Get a set of Bennetts with the 10" actuators and mount to the outside chine. Notch the bracket if you have to and slove your bow lift problems

[Old'sCool]

And yes, the bracket needs to come back off

[bartt]

DANG IT !!!!!

My next question was going to be " how to notch without removing the bracket?" That compounded with it is an aluminum bracket had me pondering how to cut. The Bennetts may still be an option, but still don't know if there is the verticle height. I really don't want to mess with taking off the bracket.... it is on there so well and remounting of it, no matter how well it is done has me neverous of water infiltration as it would be using the same holes, and it is never quite the same as an orginal mount. Am I being over anal on this assumption?

Thanks,
Bart

[CaptLloyd]

Trim tabs are the answer to your problem. Look closely how Capt Chuck has his mounted, that is how you should to it.

Mount the tabs on the outboard panal of the hull and hole saw/cut away what ever you need to the swim platform(let it stick thru) to mount the actuator properly. Cutting thru the swim platform at that area will not affect the structural integrity of the bracket.

Also, look in the photo section at how Zach mounted his Lencos

The bigger the trim tab, the more you can stuff the bow

Good luck!

Lloyd

[Old'sCool]

If you lay it out accurately and are handy with a sabre saw, drill, files.....but it still needs to be off. Alum. is really easy to cut, drill, etc.

[Capt Chuck]

If you lay it out accurately and are handy with a sabre saw, drill, files.....but it still needs to be off. Alum. is really easy to cut, drill, etc.

I think with proper lay out, tools mentioned above, masking (transom protection) and prep you could cut the opening without bracket removal. Using your lenco's also is not out of the question.
I'm going to steal one of "Stricks" photos. If I'm not mistaken his bracket was cut for his Lenco's after mounting