1978 SF restoration, my first one.....

wtenglish · #1 04-06-2009, 11:06 PM

BigLew, thanks for the advice. I took quite a few measurements before anything was disassembled and am planning on a suitable cradle and crossbracing before I start putting it back together. I hope to hold the original dimensions and perform QA/QC checks periodically through the restoration in case I need to make some adjustments.

billythekid · #2 04-07-2009, 01:54 PM

you are doing a really good job on the controlled chaos of tearing the boat down. As one of the other guys already said Stricks boat spread from not having a brace across it. I would make one so it was removable with two screws while you were working inside and then be able to reinstall after the days work is over. what are you plans for everthing? From the pics and how fast you are going it doesnt look like this is your first rodeo. Keep up the goods work and the pics coming.

htillman · #3 04-07-2009, 10:26 PM

Strick may chime in but the problem with the boat spreading is he put the floor back in and did not check the width. So measure the upper cap width and the hulls width, like everyone says, stabilize it. I removed the upper cap from my 23 but did not have a problem with spreading since the inner liner (floor) stayed intaked and kept the boat from spreading.

wtenglish · #4 04-07-2009, 11:47 PM

Quote:

Strick may chime in but the problem with the boat spreading is he put the floor back in and did not check the width. So measure the upper cap width and the hulls width, like everyone says, stabilize it. I removed the upper cap from my 23 but did not have a problem with spreading since the inner liner (floor) stayed intaked and kept the boat from spreading.

ET23, I've checked the dimensions a couple of times since I removed the deck, inner liner and gunwales and haven't seen excessive deflection at this point. I was planning on taking it off the trailer and blocking it but the trailer actually provides such a good cradle that I may wait until I have some of the structural members back in place before addressing the bottom.

wtenglish · #5 04-07-2009, 11:35 PM

Quote:

you are doing a really good job on the controlled chaos of tearing the boat down. As one of the other guys already said Stricks boat spread from not having a brace across it. I would make one so it was removable with two screws while you were working inside and then be able to reinstall after the days work is over. what are you plans for everthing? From the pics and how fast you are going it doesnt look like this is your first rodeo. Keep up the goods work and the pics coming.

BTK, that is a good idea and I may give it a try. Another method that I read on one post was to cut a dado in two ends of a 2x4 and just drop it down on the pre-measured locations. I definitely need to hold the original form and avoid any rework if possible. A lot of the design is still fluid right now but a couple of things I'm hoping to accomplish will be able to accomodate a 175hp to 200hp 4 stroke engine with a 16-20 gallon livewell in the stern. At this point I'm thinking about purchasing one of Hermco's brackets for twins and having it drilled for a single for the additional flotation. I've got some sanding to do and it will give me a chance to put more thought into the details. Nobody told me this stuff's addictive, I'm having a hard time focusing on the day job!

Bushwacker · #6 04-13-2009, 12:27 AM

Quote:

.. a couple of things I'm hoping to accomplish will be able to accomodate a 175hp to 200hp 4 stroke engine with a 16-20 gallon livewell in the stern. At this point I'm thinking about purchasing one of Hermco's brackets for twins and having it drilled for a single for the additional flotation.

Will, it looks like you're off to a great start on your restoration! However I'd respectfully suggest you rethink the power selection, as the combo of a bracket, 500 lb motor (ask the mfgr what the WET weight is will all fluids and cowling installed!) and a big live well = a seriously stern heavy boat with a min planing speed of 20 mph plus! No matter how big the flotation chamber is, it won't help once you're on plane! Consider the Zuke 140 if you want quiet and low fuel consumption, or an early lightweight Merc if you want lots of power, or if you want quiet, lots of power AND low fuel comsumption, a small block V-6 E-Tec!

wtenglish · #7 04-13-2009, 10:07 AM

Bushwacker, that's some really good advice and the sort of input I was hoping to receive once I started posting. Right now I have my "wish list" and then there is the "reality list" that I hope to stick to once the big decisions are made. And for me the motor selection is a HUGE decision along with the final ride and performance the boat provides. In all reality I could probably do without a rear live well but as stated it's still on the wish list at this point. Keep the suggestions coming!

wtenglish · #8 05-05-2009, 12:13 AM

Not a lot of progress over the last month. I have been waiting on materials, giving it a lot of thought and fishing for ideas from many of you. The 1.5" Coosa for my transom was delivered and I used a hardi board as a template.

While waiting on materials I had some time to kill and went ahead and cut the fiberglass skin of off the back of the fuel tank lid. No surprises here.

This is just an illustration of the bracing that I installed to hopefully keep the hull from spreading. It's easy to install and easy to remove.

I set my jigsaw at a 14 degree angle to cut the Coosa for the transom

This is the dry fit. I really liked how Strick's boat turned out and decided I would shoot for something similar. It could change but that is the plan for now.

I don't ever see myself getting rid of this boat as long as I can use it and am giving some serious thought to using synthetic material for all of the structural components and coring. My only concern is what I will use for the backing where I need to attach the center console, leaning post, etc. Any ideas?

ROBCAR · #9 05-05-2009, 08:40 AM

good idea on the bracing using those 2x4's

I see you are closing the transom (which looks nice)....what kind of bracket will you use?

#10 08-23-2009, 05:39 PM

The windshield you gave me fits perfectly! I just need the mounting hardware which is on order now. Thanks for helping me out.

One more – did you by chance save any of the aft portion of your top liner when you removed it? I’m talking about the stern where the two aft compartments and motor well used to be. I see it on the ground in your pictures. If you have it and are not going to use it, I would be glad to pay you for what you think it’s worth. I’m removing that Porta Bracket and cutting back to a 25 inch transom, and the compartments that are there now will have to come out. They were built during the last rebuild that put the Porta Bracket on.