1989 23WA Seacraft fuel tank replacemnt/maybe? - Page 2

Old'sCool · #11 04-18-2009, 04:04 PM

Where would the anti-siphon valve be located?

Typically inside the fitting closest to the tank. My understanding is that it's meant to prevent flow if inverted....like a flipped boat.

gss036 · #12 04-18-2009, 11:17 PM

JohnB, how did you get your tank out of your hull? These things are huge. I think mine will be like 91"X30"X10". How do you get the foam loose?

JohnB · #13 04-19-2009, 02:14 PM

I posted an abreviated version of my rebuild.
The link below shows how I used a threaded rod, and a 4x4 piece of wood to lift the tank out. It was a PITA.

http://www.classicseacraft.com/forum/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB3&Number=52892&Forum=Al l_Forums&Words="The%20SeaCraft%20soap%20opera%20co ntinues."&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Main=52084&Search= true&where=bodysub&Name=&daterange=1&newerval=14&n ewertype=y&olderval=&oldertype=&bodyprev=#Post5289 2

gss036 · #14 04-19-2009, 08:35 PM

Thanks for the post reply John, good ideas. I am just wondering if the tank will come out of the hull enough to lift
out with the engine mounted. I can only get my hull open up to the step up on the cabin, it does not go straight through like the yours, so there is about 3 feet there to contend with in being able to slide it back and up, if it comes lose. My tank has a lot of junk in it, I may just try to clean it out and then determine if i have a leak.
I did e-mail RDS and got a reply that some would contact me.
The boat is sitting slightly crooked on the trailer and with the trailer jack up, I have a low corner to collect any liquid. I was thinking about using a pressure washer and trying to get all the junk washed back to the corner and then use a hose to siphon out the water, does that sound like it would work. RACOR/Honda filters are too expensive to be changing weekly.

gss036 · #15 04-20-2009, 11:26 PM

I removed the caulked in panels today and was able to stick my nose in the "V" under the tank platform and I can smell gas, there is no sign of leakage, but the stink is there. I've got the tank ready to remove. The tank looked like it has been moving little bit as one on the "L" welded on brackets was broke and most of the screws were just finger tight where they had been wearing on the fiberglass in the stringers. The tank was about 80% free from the foam, worked the rest loose. Other than that, everything looks in good shape including the tank platform. Tomorrow I will try rigging something to lift and slide the tank. Right at the rear of the tank there is a 3/4" piece of plywood glassed into the stringers and the bait well fits snug to it, so really don't want to have to cut on that. I do have 5" at the top to be able to lift and hopefully the tank will clear. I think if I get it that far back, I will be able to clear the engine. Sure was an adventurous day for me since I have never been into the hull like that. I was able to work on some wiring for the float switch on the bilge pump and get the float working again. Sure a lot easier than working through the small hole in the engine well.

CaptLloyd · #16 04-21-2009, 06:58 PM

Hey Gary,

Any pics of the process?

Lloyd

gss036 · #17 04-22-2009, 02:27 PM

Loyd, sorry no pictures at present. I can not believe it but they made the hole 27 inches wide and the tank is 28 inches wide. I talked with a boat repair shop this AM and he suggested that since I am going to go to a smaller tank, instead of cutting up the boat, cut the tank and collapse it in so it will come out, said it would be a lot less work that redoing the glass. I just happen to be the owner of an 8 inches grinder, if that won't work, guess I will have to rent or borrow a sawszal.

dlb511 · #18 04-22-2009, 06:11 PM

Gary, be very careful cutting into that tank with anything. Gasoline fumes never seem to go away and will explode, with any spark. There is a proper way, I just don't happen to know it. Check with a welder, or someone with experience cutting open fuel drums to find out how to do it.

castalot · #19 04-22-2009, 06:31 PM

you can fill the tank with water to displace the gas fumes

gss036 · #20 04-23-2009, 01:33 AM

I put water into the tank and started cutting with a (power saw) sawzal, got it opened enough to see the 1st baffle, this is not going to be easy. I remeasured the hole and the deck plate, I think if I cut 1/2" on each side, I will still have plenty of support to replace the deck panel and good support.
All the deck screws are totally loose, any idea of how to repair them? Maybe epoxy and re drill the holes? I know the caulking holds the plate in place, but would be nice to keep the salt water out as I know it would seep through the screws.