1975 18' rebuild

[small45]

thanks for the response on the caps. i got my glass and epoxy from us composites but they don't seem to carry coosa or tuff stuff...where did you guys get it?

CAPTIANKASS - the mako console is actually about five inches taller than the factory set up which had a factory cooler seat. it looks short due to the position of the helm, but i'm thinking i'll repostion the helm and throttle to the top. i'm using this console for two reasons. 1. it has a 23 gallon baitwell already in it(which saves me a ton of work) and the dimensions will work with the top i'm running on my other 18'. oh, and i picked it up for $225 with the helm,guages,switches,blah,blah

thanks for the suggestions, as this is my first major project and i can use all the insight i can get.

[wtenglish]

These guys should be able to give you a distributor in your area.

http://www.coosacomposites.com/

[billythekid]

http://www.nacomposites.com/products...#corematerials


they are good remember with coring you need the proper bedding putty.

[small45]

made some progress over the last month. finised glassing the stingers, installing tanks and bulkheads, blah blah. no digital pictures of these items 'cause the camera was non-funtional. it's working again now, so here are some of the more recent work.



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[small45]

it's hard to tell, but what i did was cabosil and screw the floor substrate(1/2" treated and dried ac plywood)down to the raised stringers and the ledger that i glassed to the hull sides. also i added a stiff knee from the keel stringer to the transom and the floor.

then i laid down two layers so far of 1708 on the substrate that i turned up about 2" onto the hull sides. i'm hoping this will add some rigidity the boat.

next i finished cutting the remains of the old floor from the liner and then cut the difference out for the amount that i raised the floor. (that was a real pita...i did that several times before i even got close)

almost forgot, while i had the liner out on the floor, i turned it over and cut out the anchor box. this was mainly so i could get at the coring of the forward cap area for repairs, but also because the original box was tiney at best. also while upside down, i cut out the rotten coring on the stearn boxes and added several layers of 1708 instead.




and now for the part that i can't seem to figure out...when i installed the liner/cap, it seems that the hull is about 5/8" shorter in overall length than the cap is! i realize that if the hull spread in width, that it could cause the reduction in length...but if that were the case, it seems like i would have had trouble installing the cap. but, it went back on with minimal effort. hey, at least i didn't come up with more hull than liner/cap!

[small45]

made some headway on glassing the cap to the hull. i decided to just cut off the overhang of the cap. since the the hull sides and cap had over two hundred old screw holes any way, i thought it might be better to glass the cap/hull conection. i ground out all the old gel coaton both pieces(bigger job than i had anticipated) used two layers of 3" woevn tape to make the connection. it seems to be fairly sturdy at this point.

also got a start on the remainder of the transon encloser. it is a combo 12gal(ish) baitwell/cooler/seat for the kid. the main stucter for the tank is the old in floor baitwell that i did some chainsaw art on










two things i am unsure of
1. how thick is safe to build up fiaring mud without reinforcement?

2. what should i use to fill the small dings and such that will be below the water line?

thanks

[billythekid]

There are a ton of different things you can use or get recomend to use. I had really good success with these 2.

I used this alot and some is over and 1.5 inches thick. I like it becuase it already has fiberglass hair mixed in.

http://resurfacesolutions.com/pc-35-...filler-qt.aspx


For the fair below the water line, you can use Quick Fair. Its Pricey but I think others will agree it works out really nice and its epoxy so you dont have to worry about the water.

http://www.systemthree.com/p_st_quikfair.asp

[small45]

a little progress...i'm Very slow with my body work. especially since i decided to get rid of the two piece look on the cap...i've never really liked that about the 18's

[Islandtrader]

two things i am unsure of
1. how thick is safe to build up fiaring mud without reinforcement?

2. what should i use to fill the small dings and such that will be below the water line?

thanks

I have used a product called Ultra-Fair and it is a epoxy resin 1:1 You can putty up to one inch thick according to the manufacture (Adtech). I like this product better than the Quick Fair. Just my opinion.

[small45]

getting closer







[image]http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q394/small45/DSC00309[/image]














and the part i've dreaded the most