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#1
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kinda late chimming in here, but for the bolts, I wouldn't use "never sieze", it has copper in it, between the aluminum, stainless steel and copper it would just all sieze up together, use a product called "tef gel" you won't be dissapointed, your project looks great, good choice of materials.
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#2
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Tuf Gel. Works great!
GFS Cayman are you doin a crossing this month? ![]() |
#3
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Thanks for the compliment Caymanboy, I'm leaning towards using a material called Garolite for the backing of my console, leaning post, etc. Reading the specs on it, the material is similar to what is used in electrical circuit boards and is very dense, waterproof and composed of epoxy and woven fibers.
__________________
Will |
#4
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Looking good, you can cut a console for me anytime. keep up the good work
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36' Yellowfin 1972 20' seacraft 140 suzuki http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ad.php?t=18607 |
#5
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After a couple of weekends dealing with domestic issues I was able to get after it again last week. I started off by taking some of the coosa board scraps and attaching them to the sides of the hull with Cabosil to serve as a ledge support for my future deck (an idea copied from Strick). It was a real PITA but after they cured I glassed them in with 1.5 oz matt. This was my first time using matt and wasn't real happy with the appearance but it is rock solid and will be hidden to view after the deck is in.
![]() ![]() Not very much work accomplished before I had to go fishing again. This time it was the Jacksonville Kingfish Tournament. It's a real treat for those who may have never participated. Around 500 boats this year which is well off the average but was a blast anyway. The fishing wasn't great and a 42 lb'er took the $40k on Thursday and a 40 lb'er took the cash on Friday. The prize for the aggregate of both days was roughly 62 lbs. This pic is leaving Mayport the first morning. Boats as far as you can see. ![]() Due to the number of boats, you have a predetermined check out on north or south. This is the south side. ![]() Taxpayer dollars at work! US Navy Seahawk helicopters were everywhere as we came back into the mouth of the St. Johns River, compliments of the US Naval Base at Mayport. ![]() For a while I've had thoughts about reusing some of the original forward compartments in different areas during the restoration. While dealing with the larger of the two I found some rotten coring on the bottom of the box that I hadn't noticed before. I'm stripping that to be recored and patching the other hole that had been filled in with caulk and painted. ![]() Another area that I addressed was adding additional layers in the corners of the transom. I'm not looking for overkill but do realize this will see additional stress after I add a bracket. ![]() I used three layers which consisted of a layer of Woven Roven, 15 oz. biax and another layer of Roven to finish this up. ![]() Here is where I need some constructive criticism. This is what I'm thinking, this second panel forward of the transom will leave me approximately 12" of space to house my bilge pumps, washdown pumps, fuel fiter, etc. I will add access hatches and additional structural support to tie it together. ![]() This is a dry fit with one of the original compartments. I need a large fish box and felt this could serve the purpose in a convenient area. ![]()
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Will |
#6
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Will,
Looking good. From the way it sounded in the post you want to put all the pumps, etc in the space between the transom and the next wall. This 12" space will be maddening to work in. Not only is it small in width it will be deep. Hard to access. The area where the fish box is going would be a better location. You could use a smaller fish box and put the pumps in the floor behind the fish box with an access hatch in the floor. Just my two cents but, being a tournament fisherman, you know what a PITA it is to change a live bait pump offshore. It would be nice to have a nice clean area in the bilge that will house all pumps, fuel filters, transducer, etc. BA |
#7
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After giving some thought to your comments BA17, I went ahead and ordered the pumps that I will need. Once I receive I can lay everything out to see how much room I have to work with and what changes may be needed to make my idea work if possible. Not ready to scrap my plan just yet but also don't want to paint myself into a corner.
While waiting I moved ahead and started stitching up the center console. I'm using the left over coosa board anywhere I can and will glass over it after all the pieces are in place. I have some 1 1/2" coosa left over from the transom and am thinking about using it to core the sides of the console where a t-top will fasten for maximum strength. ![]() View from the inside. ![]() I went ahead and glassed the notch at the transom as well. ![]()
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Will |
#8
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Continuing with the console. You can see how the screw holes in the flange were gouged from previous movement between the console and deck. I'm going to use 2" glass tape to reinforce the bottom of the flange and then fill in the holes with thickened epoxy.
![]() This tape is the easiest fiberglass product I've worked with to date. Wet out very easily. ![]() ![]() Divider wall between the forward compartment and the rear area. I've got a feeling that a subwoofer will be calling this home in the future. ![]() Jumped back over to the top cap. I'm removing what's left of the plywood and balsa coring and preparing to reassemble. I've also marked the area of the inner liner to be cut that will form the new gunwales that will have an open bottom. ![]() ![]() ![]() With my fuel tank ordered I cut 6 pieces of left over 3/4 " Coosa 26" long to form the slats for the fuel coffin. This picture shows the biax that was cut 42" long that will be glassed to the inside side of the stringers. ![]() More to follow:
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Will |
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