through hull drain tubes in the floor

[fishhuntNC]

Sorry my question was for avian.I just thought he was saying the cockpit drained into the bilge but I think he meens it drains out of the bottom of the boat.Ive gone and looked at previous post now and seen that other boats have been modified to do this(drain into the bilge).Is there a reason for this instead of just letting the water out of the boat. Also I was thinking(that tends to get me in trouble) that he said the cockpit drain was a brass truhull that he could not get broken free. And my scuppers are plastic had no trouble but I havent had them out to see if the wood in the transom was wet around them.Just 5200 around them.

[fishhuntNC]

Guess this is one of those differences I wanted to know about.My tracker hull has a different scupper setup than Avians boat or I guess all older models so now I'll shut up.

[Greno]

My 18 has no scuppers except the 2 in the motor well. The plastic ones behind the baitwell have been filled with 5200 and the hoses/tubes and wherever they went are gone. I have toyed with the idea of cutting flappers in the side of the hull at the floor to have some drainage, but as low as the thing sits in the back they would probably only work when running. I can't imagine scuppers that run through the bottom work all that well either.

Eric

[Bushwacker]

. . . I can't imagine scuppers that run through the bottom work all that well either. Eric

That's because your missing one small but important detail. There are small wedges attached to the hull just in front of the scupper tubes which create SIGNIFICANT suction. It pulls the water out much faster than just depending on gravity!

I think I had temporarily removed them for better access when flaring the end of tube, so that's why you didn't see them in photos in my old post.

Also, you don't necessarily have to buy an expensive flaring tool. I used some threaded rod, nuts & washers and some tapered sockets I had to get the flare started, then finished with ball peen hammer. Maybe not as pretty as using a tool, but it worked! One problem with those plastic tubes is that they will eventually crack if enough UV gets to them.

[Old'sCool]

I had replaced these on an older Whaler I had. A tow ball works great also. I had to "anneal" the brass tube by torch heating and quench in water usually twice. This prevents splitting when flaring.

[Greno]

I have no evidence on my boat that anything ever went through the bottom of the hull except the drain for the baitwell. I will search harder i guess.

Eric

[Bushwacker]

The thru-the-bottom scuppers may have been unique to the Potter models, about 1970-79. Not sure of configuration post-Potter.

[avian22]

Bush I'm going to have to start paying you for ideas. I would have never thought I could taper the tubes like the way you described. Definitely hit you up when I attempt that. I have to watch a couple of old mcgyver episodes to gain some confidence first. LOL

In reference to Greno's qoute. I do have a major problem when those floor drains are unpluged. If your maintaining your station and you walk to one side of the boat the drain hole in the floor drops below the water line and begins to pour onto the deck. I always thought that was kind of a weird reaction if they weren't meant to be plugged all the time.

[avian22]

has anyone else had the flooding problem with the drain dropping below the water line when you walk to one side of the boat?

[McGillicuddy]

Yo, Avian, Common problem. Couple of solutions include adding 2 1" drain plugs to the mix or considering the time tested "vortex" concept.

Here's a link to FELLOW-SHIP's "vortex" creation also known as a flapper valve or a duck bill valve.
http://www.classicseacraft.com/forum...rev=#Post40102

There you'll see also CSickNick's more modern creation (I think he used bronze and a check valve) and a really good discussion. Note the dates of the posts to give you an idea of how to use the search engine should you need to refer to them again...