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#1
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Just noticed it last week when I pushed on the motor for some unknown reason - I talked with a guy that has a mid down in Pinellas Park and he said he did his without pulling the PH - the allen screw on the shift shaft can be an issue though
So I may have one lined up down here and the guy said I could do some of the work myself - I want to aviod having to swap the T & T unit if possiable One more opinion needed - he thinks by pulling the reed plate I could get to the rod cap for #6 and push the piston out - hone the cylinder and put a new piston in without dismantling the PH - all the others are fine and I don't expect the cylinder to be too bad. I would have Mike help me with this part if its feasable - hate to part it out
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Any way you measure it - dumbass is expensive |
#2
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Looks like the block is fine, just some alum to be sanded out. This guy I found thinks he can do the swivel pin without pulling the PH just the pan and then will pull the reed blocks and pump a new piston in it. Gonna try it anyway and it keeps the labor costs down.
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Any way you measure it - dumbass is expensive |
#3
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#4
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The guy thats doing mine is close to there and I'm giving him a hun for it and its tight - I saw that one but this guy has a shop and will do all the work - piston and all
Just a note - I was talking to a guy in SC about a PH - mentioned I had some Alum on the cyl wall - novel idea but he said just put some muratic acid on a rag and it will come right off - no sanding, makes perfect sense too will report back on that shrimpin - just an FYI
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Any way you measure it - dumbass is expensive |
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