Compression Question????

[fdheld34]

Did you check the compression when the engine was warmed up?? Also was fuel/oil running through it at the time of the test?(Kill switch in safe mode) All the plugs out at when you cranked it over??

Motor was cold when compression done
all spark plugs removed and remote starter used at motor


Tim... wish you were closer.....

I will check specs just in case..I really dont feel like dumping money in that I dont have!!!!

[Bigshrimpin]

Fred - 1st thing I would do is buy a compression tester yourself and double check the mechanics claims on the bottom two. If they test low . . . pull the heads.

if the scoring isn't bad, you can do a 2 hole fix on that motor w/o a total rebuild. It'll take about 1 day and you'll need 2 new head gaskets, 2 new pistons and rings, bearings (may be able to reuse), intake gasket, a ball hone that will fit that motor, lots of oil, wd-40, locktite, gel seal, and carb rebuild kits. It's a bit of a hack fix, but it'll work if you keep everything clean clean clean. The alternative is to sell it. Parts will probably run $300 - $400, so you have to make the call and decide if you feel mechanically inclined.

[thehermit]

You should pop a head....and have a look. Tim walked me thru this exact repair. Yes you can pull the reed block unbolt the rod and push the piston out. After doing that you can "de glaze" with a hone. I did this to one cyl that had a stuck ring (my fault) on my 225. Compression went from 80 back up to 120 where the rest were. Parts for the piston, rings, rod bearings etc was just over 200ish I think. Its a pretty basic motor. I dont think I would move it into the "parts motor" catagory without looking inside 1st.

[76Red18]

Mine's 105 - 108 and 98 on the bottom port. When I rebuilt a couple years ago, they were 110 except that bottom one at 105.

[Bigshrimpin]

John - Do you have that picture of the piston with the stuck ring, so fred can see what 80psi looks like in that motor?

[thehermit]

Yea...Unfortunately

80 psi: note verticle grooves:



Pull piston: note stuck ring and more vert damage


120 psi: Cy; deglazed with hone 90% of vert grooves gone, cross hatch re-established, comp back up to 120, motor is happy again. Thes pix were about 3/4 thru...it looked a bit better when cleaned. I put in a new cly and ring kit. Rod and needle bearings too.





It dosnt make me feel good that I had to perform surgery but like Tim has said these motors are tough and basic and it didnt seem to mind the work. My motor was a nice clean motor that I aquired for cheap money before I gooned it up. I hope to get a few seaons from it still.

[fdheld34]

John and Tim thanks for the valuable advise and pics to go along with it.

Tim...question for you...before I continue with this motor..with my minor mechanical abilities when it comes to outboards

I spoke with my mechanic who came out and again verified compression last night and it came out same.
He said he would buy my motor as is for $1000 and put it towards purchase for a 2001 200 hp Merc carbed motor that he is going to rebuild plus install all new guages and harness, cables and cotrol box for total of $4000 minus $1000 for my motor..so basically a rebulit motor with 1 yr warranty for $3000. He rebulds motors for race boats etc and did some nice work on my carbs on my 1993 merc 135hp on the back of my Seafari. That was the best boat/motor I ever owned!!!! Also said weight would be 80 lbs lighter with Merc!!!

What should I do...?????oohhhh....
He also found out that stator has been dripping black goo and he said it will probably start to arc..and will eventually need to be replaced and reepoxied???!! and we are abe to tilt up motor by hand..so t/t needs attention.Guess my initial purchase of the Johnson for $1800..taught me a valuable lesson...bring a mechanic!!!
tim..let me know your ideas..do I fart around with this Johnson...I just want a reliable motor that I can put on another Seacraft in future!!!!
Thanks
-Fred H

[Bigshrimpin]

Fred - Pull the heads and look first before you jump into anything or better yet pull the head with the mechanic. You know what you are looking for . . . The bolts are cake to remove (15 minutes total) and even if you do the deal with the mechanic . . . he has to yank the heads off. Make your decision then. That motor parted out is worth around $1000, so what can you get for $4000.

If that 2001 Merc 2.5L 200 has o ring (flat looking heads) style heads . . . stay away. If not, it doesn't sounds like a bad deal to me, especially if he'll rig it and provide gauges, remove oil injection, and offer some sort of warranty/support. If he's rebuilding it . . . ask him exactly what he's doing to "rebuild" that motor.
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Hope this helps!

[fdheld34]

Thaks Tim..spoke with him 2 minutes ago on phone..not using o ring heads on rebuild..says he stays away from them...doing total teardown and rebuild back up to specs, including carbs..eliminating oil injection..and using block off plate??-- and said will look like came from factory..no extra wires etc for oil injection. He is going to pressure test lower unit and if any problems will also go through that as well. Also gauges hooked up and quicksilver binnacle control mount.(said he will not charge for rigging)
He is also going to pull head off for me on johnson and give me his opinion before this whole deal takes place. will repost next monday...gotta go to MS for thanksgiving..hate going out there..havent seen father in over 2 years and he always looks older every time I see him ...and he tells me I look fatter!!!!
I will start new thread regarding this due to only 2 thread at a time on this topic....just remember this is on a Mako ...hopefully not for long!!!
Tim....GUESS $4000 could buy me "BIG RED"

Sandy....still have your gps ...your outriggers look tempting.

[Bigshrimpin]

Hey Fred - He sounds like a stand up guy. I'd do 4K delivered with a gallon of flag blue awlcraft 2000 just to make space in my yard.