1978 SF restoration, my first one.....

wtenglish · #1 01-25-2010, 12:32 AM

Thanks. Yes, I'm using epoxy.

wtenglish · #2 01-30-2010, 05:44 PM

After having some time to cut the flanges to size I've gotten the fit to work pretty well. The corners in the rear will have to be ground down to make the radius look right but that will come later.

This is the coosa coring for the rod holders. I glassed in place with 1708.

After this sets up I am going to sit it to the side until the deck goes in. Don't want to limit my access yet.

wtenglish · #3 02-06-2010, 07:29 PM

Can anyone give me suggestions for a brand of paint that I can use to coat my fish box and in deck cooler???

I'm thinking I need something that will be tough as well as being suitable for prolonged contact with water from melting ice.

Bushwacker · #4 02-06-2010, 11:46 PM

Signature Finish paint will work. It's tough stuff.

Islandtrader · #5 02-07-2010, 11:03 AM

Look at Tile Clad from Sh.Wm. 2 part epoxy. They use this to coat the inside of water towers. Roll or brush on.

I have used if for my fish box, live well and in the bilge area. Very tough.

strick · #6 02-07-2010, 11:11 AM

I've used sherman williams tile clad epoxy paint and it has held up well...since it's an epoxy you dont want to have it exposed to UV or it will yellow..so it's good for things like the bilge. I'm gonna try white gel coat on the bilge of my 25 soon...since I have 5 gallons of it laying in my shop....might do the duratec additive thing to it.

strick

wtenglish · #7 03-14-2010, 05:51 PM

I've had to make repairs to a mistake I made early on when I wasn't real sure what I wanted to do. I had to glass the bow cooler back to the portion of the inner liner that I have decided to keep. I also replaced the coring under the anchor locker with a piece of divinycell and glassed it in.

I overdrilled the original 1/2" drain holes with a 1" bit and then filled them with cabosil. Then drilled again at 1/2" to give the surrounding materials a barrier.

This is the same piece ready to be reinstalled. It was a real PITA to get it back in by myself. Once I got it set I used cabosil everywhere it was attached originally.

I'm using some leftover Coosa from my transom to form the forward step at the cooler. I left about a half a inch between the coosa and the hull to allow for flex if necessary. I used drywall screws through the top of the 2 x 4's to hold it level so that the new forward deck will be flush when installed.

Tabbed in on both sides, front and back. This connection isn't meant to bear all the weight the area will see in the future but mainly to hold in place while the deck goes in.

Started building my laminating table for the deck. Since I'll be doing it outside I'm going to have to wait for good weather before starting.

wtenglish · #8 03-28-2010, 07:48 PM

Getting ready to install the fishbox in the rear of the boat. I used two 2x4's to suspend it so the top will be flush with the bottom of the deck when it is set in. Also allows me to have insulating foam around the box.

Drain line to the bilge.

Installed a 1/4 turn ball valve that can be used instead of a plug in the box. I dripped some primer in the bilge and will have to sand and repaint those spots.

Foam being installed.

Three pieces of hardi board on the laminating table for a nice smooth surface.

Borrowing and idea from Billy the Kid I ripped a sheet of 1/8" luan to build the template for the deck. I used hot glue to attach all the pieces

Transfering the template to the laminating table. Had to get my wife to help out because of the flex in it.

I used 3/4" chamfer to mark the edges. Also cut some plywood for the openings for the rigging tubes and access port over the fuel tank. Started forming the hatch opening that will be in the rear. I've done 95% of this project by myself but will be recruiting some friends to help me lay up the deck. With next weekend being Easter it will probably be the following week, weather permitting.