I Need A Shrink !

[SBD]

I will be using vinyl ester for most of the glass work however

Specifically what brand/type do you recommend? Where is a good source? The boat I am working on is all polyester and would like to continue using it for most of the repairs.

These projects are incredibly informative and inspirational...THANKS!

[strick]

Conner- will do on the performance #'s once its in the drink.

Sean- I've been getting my resin from composites one in sac.
Svendsons marine in Alameda also carries the same stuff (they buy it from composits one) but it is a little more then if you were to open an account with Composites One. Wish I could tell you the brand name but I don't get that much into it.

strick

[strick]

Lots of grunt work going on lately. We finished most of the underside of the cap so I flipped it and began filling all the spider cracks and the man made holes.









The hull was moved in the shop so I could begin doing some glass work



A diesel heater helps to keep the shop temperature warm enough to allow the glass to cure.



The top of the transom core was exposed so I wanted to cover that with some glass



the white stuff is fairing compound (cabosil/micro balloons) added to fill the voids and then heavy matt to seal the area off






the engine compartment needed some cleaning up. I added fairing compound to smooth out the voids and then re glassed so I would have a nice clean area to gel coat later.








The bulkhead the separates the engine compartment from the fuel hatch was tabbed in place at the factory and there
was exposed wood so I covered that up with glass. A layer of 1708 covers both sides









First round of quick fair added to the cap








The biggest project inside the boat will be getting the fuel hatch and deck back in shape. The previous owner cut
out a section of the deck and I will need to replace it. A shot of what it looked like before. As you can see the cuts were crooked and I need to get it all straight.







and a couple shots of were I am as of today. I'm adding some more support under the deck to support the floor and
deck hatch. The hatch will not be flat but will have the L shape curve that dips down toward the cabin. This will
allow me to place a large fuel tank the extends forward under the cabin deck thus getting some weight forward. The
tank will have to be special made.







Back under the cap I decided that some teak trim would look nice around the window frame so I've added some 3/8" plywood backing for the teak to screw into. Also the forward access hatch to the deck has a very abrupt curve built in for the drain channels and I wanted to smooth out this transition so the interior head liner will slope up to it gradually rather then make a 90 degree bend as before.






As promised some shots under the deck of the 25 seafari. Looking from the engine compartment port side toward the
bow showing the holes cut for vents and fuel lines. The deck is glassed to the stringers here.



At the step down to enter the cabin port side. Note that the floor is above the stringers here so I'm adding support under this area.



Looking under the deck mid line under the cabin toward the bow. looks like snow in there!



The fiberglass floor is 3/8 inch thick with 1/2 inch balsa core



Duo Prop has arrived but the prop got bent during transport....off the the prop guy they go...I guess I needed to get them tuned up any way





that's it for now

strick

[Blackfin26]

That ain't bad so far...thanks for the experience!

[Capt Chuck]

Strick
I look forward viewing your refurb storybook !! Keep up the great work....

BTW: "Burro Brand" I hope that wood support is not the prelude to a South of the Border cabin layout? (note the screen shot) [img]/forum/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]

[76Red18]

Top notch craftsmanship as always! Hope they didn't tear up the gears when they hit that rock . So how much do you have set aside for adult beverages ? Got to be close to the 20 and 23 combined!!

[nitz]

Strick, I'm sure you already know this, but make sure you grease the prop shafts very well when you put the props back on! It is also a good idea to remove them from time to time and regrease the shafts otherwise they will become stuck and have to be cut off. If they get stuck it is almost impossible to get them off without detroying them and they aren't cheap. Beautiful work by the way!

[strick]

I hope that wood support is not the prelude to a South of the Border cabin layout? (note the screen shot) [img]/forum/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]

Funny Capt Gucci everything in the picture is welcome in the cabin except the wolfers

Thanks fellas Nitz I've read about the duo props sticking so I'll be sure to grease them up good.

strick

[bigeasy1]

The speed of your restorations,the quality of the craftsmanship,and the neatness of your work space amaze me.
I'm looking forward to the continuing progress.

[seafari25]

Hey Strick

This is such a great learning experience for me. I know I'm going to be in for it sooner or later and this is such a great how to series.

I remember you saying you wanted to put the gas tank more forward and thought that sounded fine if you were going to have twin outboards or a diesel. The weight of your engine and drive would be pretty close to ours. At rest, with two people in the cabin, our bow sits a little bit lower. No doubt she likes the heavy bow at play but I don't know if you want a heavy bow at rest.

Just some food for thought. There are probably many factors, that you have thought of, that I havn't but it concerns me a little.

This is assuming 100 gal of fuel weighs the same as me and my gal

Brandon

BTW.............SWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEET!!!!!!!