Spring Project(s) 74 20SF

[saltyfish7]

Hey SeaPlusPlus,
Amazing project – your posts are awesome. I did my own wiring when I had my 23 and was overall happy. I’m not an electrician and I only follow the law of common sense but your drawing looks good. My comments are purely based off of personal opinion.

• Pole Switch instead of Rocker - I used rocker switches on my project however in hindsight I may have considered pole switches. I think they are more weather resistant since they have an encapsulating rubber boot on them. I like the look/feel of rockers but I had one get a little moody and I’m thinking the poles would be even more robust. You can get the push button circuit breakers with sealed rubber boots also.

• On board Battery charger – I didn’t see one on your drawing. I really liked having one. I prolongs the life of the battery and is easy to just plug in when the boats not in use.

• No direct battery connections - I’m sure a lot of people will disagree but on a trailer boat I don’t like to hard wire anything to the battery except the switch and charger (i.e. no bilge pump). If I leave it in the water I just leave the switch on. I don’t like chancing I’ll get a stray drawl. I’m probably just paranoid though.

• Crimp tool - I used all heat shrink and even bought Ancor’s crimp tool. It’s basically a crimp tool that the crimp is a little wider so it doesn’t cut into the heat shrink and negate the point. http://www.marinco.com/product/singl...p-ratchet-tool

• Exit Strategy - Last, think of how you would disconnect everything if you ever had to take the console off. Perhaps having your fuse and bus bar close to the rigging tube so you could simply unscrew and lift the console off. Most of the wires runs inside the console would simply stay zip tied inside.

Good luck!

Andy

PS: I’m a Software Engineer so I get the Sea ++ innuendo (at least I think I do). Not sure if you’ve explained it to the non-computer-programmers on the forum.