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#1
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That is what is so great about this forum.
Pass Forward...ask questions and they will get answered. BTW if you check out Stricks, here we go again, thread you can find almost any question you have. That thread is my reference for a lot of my questions. Keep the pics coming....
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] "If You Done It...It Ain't Braggin" my rebuild thread: http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ad.php?t=18594 |
#2
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I would use that method but would suggest a few revisions.
1) I wouldn't wait for things to cure between steps. It will eliminate the need to sand, and the bond will be much stronger. 2) Hold it together with a bunch of drywall screws with washers. This will give even and strong "clamping". |
#3
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Well finally we finally quit procrastinating and finished sanding the hull sides down to old gelcoat (port) as the starboard side has been finished for a couple of months!! We also removed the bow rail and are in the process of removing bow pulpit to recore it (rotten also). I've also pictured my newest and most sought after PRIZE! I found a gent on another fishing website here in NC that had a Armstrong (by the looks of it) bracket for sale.....$300.00.....what can I say....I snatched it up quick!!!
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Keith Willis 25ft Downeaster Pilothouse Ford F350 Super Duty SRW 1977 SeaCraft Sceptre- SOLD |
#4
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That bracket looks like a Gil.
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#5
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Thank You SBD......I researched it and it is indeed a Gil Bracket! I was fortunate enough that it was 12 degrees as was needed for my transom.
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Keith Willis 25ft Downeaster Pilothouse Ford F350 Super Duty SRW 1977 SeaCraft Sceptre- SOLD |
#6
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Can't go wrong if its the right angle at $300.
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#7
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If you prime the board first and let it dry you then know how much the wood sucked in the epoxy. If you don't prime the board the cloth will suck the epoxy away from the wood and the bond will not be as firm. Hope this is clear.
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] "If You Done It...It Ain't Braggin" my rebuild thread: http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ad.php?t=18594 |
#8
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Agreed.
However if you wait until the hot coat is tacky, but not cured, the absorption will be over and you'll get a great bond...best of both world. The cloth will be tricky though. |
#9
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Well, we finally got around to removing the hardtop, the rodholders, outrigger mounts and the rear hardtop legs today......poor 'ole girl looks a little naked! I took the advice I was given about resins, (thanks to all that replied!) and ordered 15 gals of epoxy from US Composites (I had purchased some from them last year...they were a little bit higher, but I received good customer service from them).
Now, how hard is it to remove the cap and recore the gunnels and bow area???? There was a bit of soft or almost non-existant wood in there in some spots. Suggestions here please...is this feasable or not?
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Keith Willis 25ft Downeaster Pilothouse Ford F350 Super Duty SRW 1977 SeaCraft Sceptre- SOLD |
#10
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I did this two years ago. I will be in NC late July as that is my home - Morehead City. PM me and I will either tell you about my experience or email you.
ET |
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