23 CC minty green!

Wildman · #1 10-14-2010, 08:54 AM

If you look close the boxes have been cut out. I just threw them back in there to check the trimming I need to do so they fit right.

I will be using a Hermco bracket

The inner transom is done, its got 2 layers of Matt, and one of roven, then I tabbed 6in out on each side and the bottom just after these pictures were taken.

There will be a ton of 'fine tuning' the fit of other things around all this structural work thats going to take a bunch of time. But it feels good to get some major strides checked off the list.

thehermit · #2 10-14-2010, 09:18 AM

Wildman,

You may want to hit it with one more layer of structural glass (rov/biax). I used 2 1708 and 1 rovin plus tabing and knees on my inside. Others may have opinions on this? Are you going to do some knees?

Wildman · #3 10-14-2010, 10:26 AM

Yep it will have "knees" of some sort. The original stringer boxes have been cut WAY back, those will be brought back and continued up on an angle to where the underside of the deck will be. I want to avoid cutting the deck around the knees as there will be no way to hide them if I do.

I am planning on chopping in some PVC chases in that area missing from the stringer boxes too, just haven't figured them out yet.

That 1708 you are using is 10z total right? my roven is 24oz alone.
I will also be adding a layer of 24oz roven and 2 layers of 1.5oz cloth to the open area (where I havent glassed yet) on the outside of the transom. Maybe tonight. All said and done the complete transom should be 2in+

Capt Chuck · #4 10-14-2010, 11:05 AM

Quote:

Yep it will have "knees" of some sort. The original stringer boxes have been cut WAY back, those will be brought back and continued up on an angle to where the underside of the deck will be. I want to avoid cutting the deck around the knees as there will be no way to hide them if I do.

You might want to consider a horizonal suport as well

Wildman · #5 10-14-2010, 11:23 AM

Thats not a bad idea, I was worried about floor support back there as the stringers are very far apart. I had planned on running a piece of 1/2 cut PVC under the floor but that shelf would be much stronger/more support.

thehermit · #6 10-14-2010, 11:34 AM

If I am not mistaken....1708= 17 oz biax with .8 oz of mat. I think Chucks and the Wildfire setups are some of the better thought out transom fill and caps

I tried to do something similar but bailed due to my skill level. [img]/forum/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]

Sounds like you have a plan keep up the good work.

Wildman · #7 10-14-2010, 11:45 AM

I do have a plan but I am always open to more suggestions! Trying to do something RIGHT once takes a TON of fore-thought and a great deal of stealing other peoples examples.

I would like to take a look at your boat some time this fall if you dont mind. [img]/forum/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]

thehermit · #8 10-14-2010, 11:55 AM

I'll show you all my mistakes [img]/forum/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img] pm sent give me a buzz.

Blue_Heron · #9 10-14-2010, 01:04 PM

Quote:

You may want to hit it with one more layer of structural glass (rov/biax). I used 2 1708 and 1 rovin plus tabing and knees on my inside. Others may have opinions on this?

I agree. In general, you want to use the same thickness of laminate and the same thickness of core as the original transom. The transom's resistance to bending loads depends mainly on the inner and outer skins, their bond to the core material, and the thickness of the core. If your transom started with a 3/16" inner laminate, you should build it up until you have the same thickness on the new skin. A thicker laminate will also help to spread the crushing loads from through bolts.
Dave

Wildman · #10 10-27-2010, 11:03 AM

I have been bouncing between the boat and my landcruiser projects. I did get the outside all glassed up and now its time to dish out all the existing holes in the transom and patch them up too.

I got the center stringer shaped, sanded and glued down with some cabosil and resin. While I was at it, I used the thickened resin to soften the joint between the vertical on the stringer and the angle inside the hull. This should make a nice easy layup with a minimum concern for air pockets forming while I am working.

Then I ran out of resin. [

] So I am going to get all the strips of 1708 cut for the layup of the stringer.