23 CC rebuild - shine

[Bushwacker]

I. . . When you try to plane it out with 1/2 tank of gas, the gas all sloshes to the back, and you have to work it a bit.

That's a good reason to consider installing two smaller tanks! You'd have better control of CG that way!

[FELLOW-SHIP]

I went with a 120 Gal. Tank and that’s been working out pretty good for me.


FellowShip

………………………….

Just for the Grins

Official 23’ SF Antique Classic SeaCraft Owner

[Trayder]

you may not need to core the hull insides, I did my 20 without any and my current Conch 27 does not have any either. You will be very surprised how stiff the hull sides become once you tab the deck to it. On my 20 I laid in some fairing compound and then gelcoated it, on the Conch I think they hit the woven roven with a D/A and 60 grit then rolled the gel on, not pretty, but it could be if you spent some time with fairing.

Nice score by the way that boat looks like a perfect blank canvas!!

[JohnB]

I hindsight, twin 60 gal would be great, but it is what it is now. When I get a 40 gal livewell in the transom full of water, 100 pounds of ice in the fish box in the floor, the 250 suzuki hanging 3 feet off the back, and a couple fishing buddies decide to sit on the transom, it can take a minute or so to get on plane. The trim tabs pretty much fix the problem.

Weight is an issue with these boats, and my goal has been to remove every pound I don't need.

[shine]

Thanks guys. The coring of the sides, Im still up in the air about, I may just go with stiffeners and "box frames"

John B, that is helpful. How far is you sole above the waterline? How well does the cockpit drain?

I am trying to lighten it up a bit. Dual tanks is something I have been considering, its a pretty easy thing to do, and will allow me to adjust trim. I really do not like the idea of the bait tank sitting on the transom. I like it for fishing, but you have 2 guys standing back there rigging/fishing, 100 gallons of water, then a heavy outboard 30" further back then originally designed.

[JohnB]

The sole is mounted at the factury height.
Unless you get 2 guys standing in the corner at rest, the scuppers stay dry. I also have the rabud covers on them, so water doesn't come in. Cockpit drains fine.
I mounted my bracket as low as I could get it to get max floatation at rest.

[thehermit]

Nice project How much was added to the stringer height? Like others have said...I never have a wet floor. My 23 was converted from twin I/O to an outboard bracket. Its the "large console" model. Bats were moved to console. New tank is 80gals. I dont have "as built" measurements but below is my sketch plan. I love the boat and the way it came out. Good luck with yours!


and my boat

[uncleboo]

Sweet ride!

[shine]

Hermit, thats very helpful. I am after a very similar setup. Is your sketch pretty accurate in terms of tank location?

The stringers have been raised 2" above normal. I dont have the liner, so I do not know the original level of the sole. The original liner would have had a core, plus the putty that was used between the liner and the tops of the stringers. I could just be back to normal with my 2" raised stringer plus new sole. My new sole will be bonded directly to the top of the stringers with epoxy (1/4") gap maximum.

What I really need to know is the original sole level OR (even better) how far up from the keel is your loaded water line ? As you CG and trim will be almost the same as mine, this will be extremely helpful.

Joel

[thehermit]

Joel,
My sketch plan is not to scale but yes...it is an acurate tank location. I can get some measurements for you if youd like. There is also an oil tank mounted in the bilge aft of the tank.

Like Bigshrimpin said the boat performs very nice. An Etec on the back would make it perfect . I cant take credit for the layout as it was copied from Strick's 23 and various Hermco re-habs I just chose a smaller tank for my use.