Mercruiser Woes-What Next?

[Islandtrader]

it's worth taking the risk and throwing new exhaust on the failed side and seeing what she does with a load on. The most that's going to cost me is $300 bucks

Worst case scenario it blows up [img]/forum/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img].

You take off all the usable parts and sell them on craigslist. And recoup most if not more than the $300.

Mercury has a deal going that if you buy a reman. by the end of the year you can get an extra 2 years of warranty...extending out to 3 years.

What ever you do don't toss the block.

Mercury's new policy is that if you want a 350 w/o catalytic converter. You have to exchange your old block for the new one...(not sure about the parts).

There newest set up is a 377 with a catalytic converter. Its on there website. I went through this on my engine buy.

[oldfielder]

Yep-the dealer told me there is a 300 core charge, so it's not going anywhere if I go that route. 6800 for the new complete motor.
I think merc.'s rebuilds raise the hp to about 300 from 250, as well.
Anyone know how easy it is to swap in my fwc kit to a new motor? I have a relatively new heat exchanger on my current motor-those damn things are expensive!

[Islandtrader]

Core charge is different than exchange.

Some dealers use the core charge to boost the price. Do a little of shopping around. Try to find a dealer that sells a lot of Mercruiser engines, and one that knows what he is talking about.

If you want some good info. PM me your phone number and I will give you a call.

Believe me I have done a lot of research and shopping.

Most guys out there that can get M/C. Don't have a clue on whats going on.

[lost2a6]

Be sure to change both of your manifolds, not just the one that is leaking right now. It's pretty much straight forward on swapping your FWC componets over to the new engine. What would be ideal is to have a heat exchanger big enough to cool the manifolds as well, that way you would only be concerned with replaceing the risers when they start to eat away which in the long run would be cheaper. On my Seavette, every thing is FWC for the exception of the risers in which those are made of stainless steel.

[Fr. Frank]

Steve is right. Stainless is the way to go, if you can. But don't assume that stainless is a panacea.
I have even seen one of those fail from what was apparently electrolysis damage. It was on a Formula 302 with twin Merc 7.4L 440 hp with the "Silent Thunder" stainless exhaust manifold/riser/muffler systems. The stainless exhaust manifold had what looked like a wormhole going from the water jacket out to the outside of the manifold, spraying a fine mist of saltwater over everything. When we tore it down, the inside had several more of those wormhole-looking defects, but none that made it to the outside (or to the interior, either).