Outboard Options for Classic 20

[Windrider]

Ooh, a Lightning! Yep, those are hot rods.

To bring this thread back on topic... our 20's console is all painted, shiny and ready for me to take it to get a new windshield fabricated. This boat was given to us sans windshield, so I don't have an old one for a template.

I stole this pic from somewhere on this site to use as an example, since this looks exactly like our console, even down to the darker acrylic shade strip/splash guard thingy behind the windshield and the strip of aluminum across the front of the console (purpose unknown to us).



My questions:
How tall are these "original" type windshields, measuring top to bottom across the front? How thick is the acrylic? (our fabricator says 1/4" will be good, seems kinda thin to me - if it makes any difference, we will be adding a stainless grabrail/protector around it like in the pic) Do you guys prefer clear acrylic, slightly smoked, or very dark? (I've seen all types here)

[eggsuckindog]

1/4" is good, I have a tinted one and it is impossible to see out of with dark glasses on while sitting - forget in the dark. I think there are 3, clear, smoke and a darker tint, mine is probably the darkest

[uncleboo]

Here you go.
http://www.updplastics.com/seacraft%...indshields.htm
The aluminum 'thingy' is the retainer for the backrest cushion. The cushion would have come with a barrell-shaped piece of plastic stitched into the top edge and it just slides in to hold the cushion in place.

[Windrider]

Here you go.
http://www.updplastics.com/seacraft%...indshields.htm

Thanks Uncle Boo. That looks like a great place to get a windshield, but I can't find where it lists the schematics and measurements, though the home page says they are there somewhere. Guess I'll have to email them unless someone here can give me the height measurement.

The aluminum 'thingy' is the retainer for the backrest cushion. The cushion would have come with a barrell-shaped piece of plastic stitched into the top edge and it just slides in to hold the cushion in place.

That makes sense. We don't have anything as posh as cushions on our sailboats - the Shields only have a teak slat bench. But we might have to get some cushions for this Seacraft if that is how they were stock. All that was long gone on ours by the time we got her.

Oh, Gilly, I thought of you today as I was watching a group of Thistles practice for the upcoming Midwinter's Regatta. My mistake, I was thinking of Bulls Eyes for some reason when you said you liked Thistles, probably because Bulls Eyes are another of those very classic sailboats like the Shields. We do have many Thistles here in So Cal, just no Bull Eyes that I've ever seen.

[Windrider]

Update on "Evil's" refurbishing. Topsides and deck finished and painted (in the school colors) and it is time to start fairing the bottom. This boat had one of the worst bottoms I've ever seen, so that is why it is looking a bit chewed up after removing the old zillion layers of bottom paint. Since we'll have bottom paint on it anyway, we aren't going to bother getting it as nice as some of those beautifully faired bottoms I see on some SeaCrafts here.



Had a little trouble figuring what the heck to do with the boot stripe on a SeaCraft that will be stored in the water. I much prefer the look of the boot strip following the chine all the way to the stern, but I don't think we did too bad here.

[Blue_Heron]

Evil is looking very good. Though I think you should change the name to "Elvis". You can use the same letters. What kind of paint did you use?

Dave

[Windrider]

Well, this boat is flashy enough to be "Elvis," but we think "Necessary Evil" is a fun and amusing name for this boat. We once had an old battleship of a lesson sailboat named "Student Driver" so this is par for the course for us. Only our Shields get traditional ladies names.

Both deck and hull have been painted with Awl Grip, same as we did for our Shields. Even used the same non-skid method, which we are now thinking is going to result in some lost skin for folks on this boat until it wears in a bit. It is really "grippy" right now (i.e. it is about like sitting on a rasp).

Sad to say, it is too late, Uncle Boo. The sailing students are just about foaming at the mouth thinking about wakeboarding behind Evil this summer. There are also a record number of sailing students in the SCUBA classes this semester, so they are looking forward to some summer diving at Catalina Island. That means I really HAVE to find a good swim step for this boat. What sort is traditionally used on Seacrafts? I might be able to find a used one of those full stern teak ones if it isn't too hard to fit.

[Bushwacker]

. . . That means I really HAVE to find a good swim step for this boat. What sort is traditionally used on Seacrafts? I might be able to find a used one of those full stern teak ones if it isn't too hard to fit.

Most folks with outboards prefer the half(assed?) platforms so you don't have to worry about interference with the motor. It's pretty easy to make one like this one that I had before I repowered:





I made it from a 4' piece of 1" OD SS tubing; bent it into U shape with a conduit bender. The teak planks were about 2-2.5" wide x 1" thick, spaced about 1" apart and mounted with 1/4-20 SS machine screws that were countersunk into the planks and covered with teak plugs. You'll need a drill press to drill holes in the tubing for the plank mount screws. Used the same SS fittings you'd use on a Bimini top to mount it. Works best if mounted right at the water line so it's awash when lowered. It's fairly light and easily removable. With one 8' length of tubing, you could make one for each side. If you want a SERIOUS swim platform, you need one like this on my friends old SeaCraft 21, the "Unohu"!



BTW, I think you made a good choice with the 90 E-Tec for all the towing you'll be doing. Those motors run in an extremely lean stratified charge mode below 2000 rpm, so they burn even less fuel than a 4-stroke or ANY other motor when you're running at hull speed. My V-6 only burns about 0.5 gal/hr @ 5 mph, and that I-3 90 hp is exactly 1/2 of the V-6! There really is no break-in required for those motors because the engine computer keeps track of time @ rpm, and it feeds extra oil to the motor until you accumulate something like 5 hrs above 2500 rpm. If you have any other questions on the motor, go to this owners forum. It's run by some very knowledgeable technicians. I would suggest using ONLY the XD-100 full synthetic oil right from the start. It burns cleaner and you'll use less oil if you have the dealer reset the computer for it. BRP says you don't ever have to do a periodic decarb to keep the rings clean, as is required on most 2-strokes, if you use XD-100. If the boat still seems a little stern heavy, you may also want to consider running a 4-blade prop. The extra blade provides more stern lift and made a dramatic improvement in low speed planing and acceleration on my boat. Good luck with the new rig!

[uncleboo]

Sweet!! Hope it doen't convert too many of your sailors!!