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  #1  
Old 01-25-2011, 08:48 PM
Seacraft84 Seacraft84 is offline
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Location: Morehead City, NC
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Default Re: 1977 20ft Master Angler Restoration

I am just hot coating the bottom, the top side will get 1 layer of 1708 with 1.5oz matt on top of that to give me something to sand smooth. I feel since I am using 3/4" plywood putting glass on the bottom is just adding weight. Now if I were going to use 1/2" plywood then glassing the bottom would make sense. And the resin is waterproofing the wood good enough.

Blueheron.. The floor is pretty level when I pull a string and measure up the sides. It is pretty close, may be alittle off. You will never notice once everthing is put back together.
The hull looks alittle twisted because the top cap is not really connected to the hull. Just a couple of screws holding it together. I had to undo a bunch in order to lift the top cap to get the plywood in. But I will definatly put a level on it before I screw down the floor. Once I get the floor glassed I will do the top cap. The space heaters work good but the reddy heater I bought for $30 off craigs heats the place up very good. I can even work in short sleeves!! Only thing is, kerosine is $3.40/gal. I guess I use about 2gal in a evening glassing. I usually keep it off when sanding and stuff.

Thanks for the input guys. Next couple days will be slow. I pulled my back doing something last night. Maybe by thursday It will be feeling better.
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  #2  
Old 01-27-2011, 02:44 AM
Seacraft84 Seacraft84 is offline
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Default Re: 1977 20ft Master Angler Restoration

Clamped on the fuel lines, cut the bilge pump hoses to length, and painted the bilge, box under console, and anchor locker with bilgekote.

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  #3  
Old 01-27-2011, 08:16 AM
Blue_Heron Blue_Heron is offline
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Default Re: 1977 20ft Master Angler Restoration

Quote:
Blueheron.. The floor is pretty level when I pull a string and measure up the sides. It is pretty close, may be alittle off. You will never notice once everthing is put back together.
Stringlines around the perimeter won't tell you if you have a twist. Imagine a twisted picture frame. All four sides can be straight, but it's still twisted. To be sure, try this trick of the trade from an old carpenter:

Run two stringlines diagonally across the deck as in the picture below. Pull the red one first, then pull the blue one over the top of the red one. Pull both strings tight and then slide a 2x4 block under each end of each string. The strings should touch in the middle. If there's a space between the strings, you have a twist. If there's no space, switch the strings so the red one runs over the blue one. If they touch again, you're good to go.

Dave


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  #4  
Old 01-27-2011, 09:43 AM
Seacraft84 Seacraft84 is offline
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Default Re: 1977 20ft Master Angler Restoration

Thats a good idea. I will do that first thing this evening. Hopefully nothing is off to bad and I can get it corrected now.

Thanks again.
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  #5  
Old 01-28-2011, 01:34 AM
Seacraft84 Seacraft84 is offline
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Default Re: 1977 20ft Master Angler Restoration

Well everything seems to be good to go. Pulled some strings and they layed on one another just right with either one on top. Also rough cut a bulkhead for the front, where the anchors will be stored. Maybe Saturday I can get the floor screwed down.



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  #6  
Old 01-31-2011, 12:48 AM
Seacraft84 Seacraft84 is offline
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Default Re: 1977 20ft Master Angler Restoration

Got the floor screwed down and the anchor locker cabosiled in. I will sand it down tomorrow and lay the glass this week. The top cap is still loose, thats why it looks uneven.
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  #7  
Old 02-01-2011, 03:32 AM
Seacraft84 Seacraft84 is offline
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Default Re: 1977 20ft Master Angler Restoration

Sanded it down tonight and filled the last couple of low spots.


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  #8  
Old 02-03-2011, 03:50 AM
Seacraft84 Seacraft84 is offline
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Default Re: 1977 20ft Master Angler Restoration

Dry fitted the glass tonight. I will get it glassed in tomorrow night. Also made some molds for the rigging and gas lines.






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