pilot house ?

natchalkley · #1 03-21-2011, 07:17 PM

Hey I recognize this one.

Quote:

Pelican,

Nice to see someone jump into this. Can't wait to see it finished.

Here are some pictures for ideas one I was looking at building.

[image]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t99/21FTCC/DSCF0610.jpghttp://[/image]

Bigshrimpin · #2 03-21-2011, 07:34 PM

Nat - where are the handles? For you guys building them . . . Nats pilot house is a sweet setup . . . very very functional.

21ftcc · #3 03-21-2011, 08:07 PM

Yes, I have to thank you for the pictures of the build. I've been waiting for better weather to start my build.

fat2nawilly · #4 03-21-2011, 09:19 PM

I've been busy building this one for a buddy of mine, It's not a classic but it is a seacraft. beautiful lines!

21ftcc · #5 03-22-2011, 07:43 AM

So how much weight did it add?

pelican · #6 03-22-2011, 08:03 AM

lookin' good willy...

you guys who used wood,why ? just curious,composites would allow you to save alot of weight,plus,composites last indefinatley...

KenB · #7 03-22-2011, 11:43 AM

Quote:

lookin' good willy...

you guys who used wood,why ? just curious,composites would allow you to save alot of weight,plus,composites last indefinatley...

Dunno about you guys but I am using wood because the composites are expensive, no one actually knows what composites will look like after 30 years of UV in a boat (haven't been around that long), and the plywood I removed from my 1969 20, especially that stuff that was resin impregnated, is fine. I have a closed cell foam dog house someone gave me, but I am really not happy about compression, compared to ply... let me put it this way... I think I could get a c-clamp to crush the closed cell stuff, even with 2 layers of 1708 on both sides. not sure the same thing happens with 3/4" A/C.

I am using 1/2 lowes arauco instead of balsa for all my recoring efforts or hatches, top caps.

I think epoxy impregnated ply will last longer then the composite stuff. My 2 cents. If it ain't broke don't fix it. Put some epoxy or 5200 in all screw holes and thing should be golden.

Also, I am planning to use a glue gun to stick things together and then fillet and tape seams. Based on technique from ed anderson in San Diego. He uses poly on ply and has really good results. Swears by the glue gun technique.

LASTLY, the extra weight justifies a suzi 300?

Fr. Frank · #8 03-22-2011, 02:44 PM

Quote:

...LASTLY, the extra weight justifies a suzi 300?

At least that!!

pelican · #9 03-22-2011, 05:49 PM

not saying anything is "wrong" with wood,as a core-but-wood needs to be kept dry-water,especially fresh water is the enemy-dry rotting/delamination...
working outside-how do you keep everything dry ?

i read someone recomend polyester based resin-not the best choice for working with glass and wood-polyester resins only provide a surface bond,also,the polyester resins are not waterproof.

i'm just surprised to see no one using divinycell-it's very easy to work with...i work with these products every day-i've replaced enough rotted transoms,decks,stringers,bulkheads-hard tops with a balsa core,to see the damage water intrusion can cause...

the pilot house i build,will be from composite material-bagged-i've worked with enough composites,at my shop,to be a firm believer in the technology...

fat2nawilly · #10 03-22-2011, 08:06 PM

thanks for the compliments guys. It probaly only added a couple hundred extra pounds. probaly real close to the same weight of the huge t-top that we took of of it. The 3 sides are 3/4'' and the top is 1/2'' with 3/4'' screwed to the under side of the over hang. so the middle is still 1/2'' and only the bottom outer edges got thicker.The back edges I used 1 1/2'' pvc pipe and cut a 5/8'' slot out of it and sliped it over the ply and screwed it in. The reason we didnt go with composites is the cost. as long if you have the whole thing glassed and sealed up I dont see it rotten anytime soon.think of how long some of the transoms and floors lasted.