#11
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Re: 18SF Restoration - Advice on top paint and details
Great looking work pjzabo! Was the transom done from the outside? Any pictures of the work?
My old 18 had the baitwell hatch sealed closed with caulk. My 88 has it useable as a baitwell. I have that same pedestal single leaning post as uncleboo. I like it better than I though I would. Another thought on your console placement......unless your against where the post Potter 18's console is positioned, you may want to consider that location. That big cooler that uncleboo wants in front of the console balances the Tracker 18 better in the stern.
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Snookerd |
#12
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Re: 18SF Restoration - Advice on top paint and details
I cut the back out of my livewell also. Best bilge access ever. Unfortunatly, I did it after I spent 6 hours changing a bilge pump thorough that little rectangle hole in the motor well! It would take 10 minutes to do now.
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#13
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Re: 18SF Restoration - Advice on top paint and details
Hey guys - taking out that livewell was a complete bitch. Sawzall and grinder and more time than I thought. I think you could lift the boat from a hook on that livewell the way the factory glued it in. I have not thought about the best way to seal that hatch. I actually repaired and sealed the livewell and put flanges on it so I could use it as a drop in "wet storage box" that can be lifted out for bilge access. But I rather run without it to save the weight. I have to look at the suggestions to seal it and the idea to run the deck drains into a box with a bilge pump - all good suggestions.
The transom was redone by my buddy from the outside in. Here is the irony - it was done at stock height for the PO, when I bought it I wanted to run a 25" Suzuki 140 so he cut back on it and raised it. I really thought about a bracket and going full height, but I decided against it on an 18. I also thought about raising the deck, but the original deck is really so solid I hate to do it and I want the freeboard. On the console location, I actually like the stock location. The only reason I am thinking about going forward is weight shift with the heavier Suzuki 140 out back. No comments on top paint??? I'm thinking Pettit Easypoxy Semi-Gloss white - roll and tip and add some skidless when I'm done for all the top deck areas that need it. I want to get this done and get out there. The Stripers are heading north in the Hudson, the spawn is gonna peak soon and I want to be there. |
#14
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Re: 18SF Restoration - Advice on top paint and details
As far as paint, I used Interlux 1 part and wasn't very happy. I'll look at that Signature finish next time.
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" I'm the one thats got to die when its time for me to die; so let me live my life, the way I want to". J. M. Hendrix |
#15
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Re: 18SF Restoration - Advice on top paint and details
I used signature on my deck this winter for the first time. Worked great, looked great, Although I will NEVER, ever ever, ever, ever use that #$%$% tape that he sent with the kit for my nonskid........
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http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/d...t/0a21e0b9.jpg |
#16
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Re: 18SF Restoration - Advice on top paint and details
The easypoxy product is a very user friendly paint. I am just finishing a maycraft hull and i did the interior with easy poxy, including the console. It's very easy to spray and has a nice shine to it. The make an additive that dulls it some. I even did my non skid with easypoxy and put it non skid additive, came out very nice.
I cannot comment on how durable it is yet because i haven't splashed the boat. My dad and I are restoring a potter 23. We sprayed the hullsides with Signature finish. We are going to spray the inside with easypoxy and use durabak for the non skid. |
#17
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Re: 18SF Restoration - Advice on top paint and details
Thanks for the feedback on the Easy Poxy - I am going that road. Anybody have experience with rolling it instead of spraying it? I have a good compressor and some older Devilbiss guns but was wondering if for a simple white finish on the top if the roll and tip would look almost as nice as the spray finish.
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#18
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Re: 18SF Restoration - Advice on top paint and details
Hey, this is exactly what I'm having done to my 18! I don't recommend the easypoxy at all. You're better off with any single stage (meaning no basecoat/clearcoat) polyurethane from any of the automotive lines. You can get the lower priced lines like Nason and Omni for about the same as you'd spend on the easypoxy. These are catalyzed paints that cure hard and retain shine. Plus they'll mix any color you want. The easypoxy takes forever to dry and goes dull super fast. I've added awlgrip nonskid to the auto paint with great results and you can roll it out.
Good luck. |
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