1973 20' CC Transom woes

pianewman · #1 09-04-2011, 11:56 AM

What did you use to seal the holes? Does the bracket gouge the paint enough that sealant needs to be placed around the edges?
Thanks.

FishStretcher · #2 09-04-2011, 11:40 PM

Quote:

What did you use to seal the holes? Does the bracket gouge the paint enough that sealant needs to be placed around the edges?
Thanks.

I did nothing. My skeg was already lacking paint from the prior owner. Florida-style.

The button head screws and half height shear nuts are fairly low profile. I just bolted it on, making sure it flies parallel to the anti-cavitation plate, and ran with it. That is a little nerve wracking- the drilling to line it up bit.

But it is on now. I bent it a little to conform to the skeg a bit better- I made the vertical parts a tiny bit concave so the leading and trailing edges squeeze tight against the skeg. I grounded it once and it has held up well, despite the fact that the 3 screws don't look that huge. I have the size large on my 100 hp 4 stroke Yamaha, for what that is worth. And the grey matches well.

I would either paint the whole thing afterwards if you want, or you could bend the stainless bracket carefully as I described and sand or grind it to conform to the skeg nicely so it doesn't scratch. I didn't see much of a gap where I could use RTV sealant.

pianewman · #3 09-05-2011, 12:02 AM

I noticed, when I held it up to the skeg, that the curve of the bracket doesn't follow the lines of the skeg, so I'm sure the top edge would cut into the paint. I'll be sure to flatten the bracket out so it lies flush.

FishStretcher · #4 09-05-2011, 07:24 PM

Quote:

I noticed, when I held it up to the skeg, that the curve of the bracket doesn't follow the lines of the skeg, so I'm sure the top edge would cut into the paint. I'll be sure to flatten the bracket out so it lies flush.

Pics of mine installed on a previously thrashed skeg.

pianewman · #5 09-14-2011, 08:15 AM

FINALLY, getting the boat back in the water to check new scupper repair...also to re-evaluate anti-cav plate height.

Another question: I will be installing the Hydro-Shield. Does this change the suggestion that I raise the motor 2 holes, to put the AC plate at 1 1/2" inches about the keel level (Currently AC plate is level with keel...I can't see it while on plane with moderate load). I need to get this right, as I don't have access to easily play with motor height.

73 20' CC, 150 OptiMax (HEAVY), 2 batteries in front of the console, rear baitwell.

Thanks again, folks.

FishStretcher · #6 10-02-2011, 10:44 PM

Hey Pianewman-

I finally got to look at my setup this weekend in action. With the Yamaha F100 and the size large hydroshield and a full boat (3 guys, 3 tackle boxes, a kicker, kicker fuel tank), it looks like the anti-cav plate was in fact about 0 inches above the keel, running basically dry at about 31 MPH with minimal lateral spray off the lower unit. No tape measure involved, as I was leaning over the transom at WOT.

I also have the two batteries in the center console, along with a 20 gallon topside tank. I have flotation foam where the under deck tank was.

Again, with the noticeable stern lift at WOT from (I suppose) the hydroshield and 4 blade stern lifting 12-3/4 x 17P prop. A hat tip to Fr. Frank for the suggestions on my setup.

Quote:

Originally Posted by pianewman

FINALLY, getting the boat back in the water to check new scupper repair...also to re-evaluate anti-cav plate height.

Another question: I will be installing the Hydro-Shield. Does this change the suggestion that I raise the motor 2 holes, to put the AC plate at 1 1/2" inches about the keel level (Currently AC plate is level with keel...I can't see it while on plane with moderate load). I need to get this right, as I don't have access to easily play with motor height.

73 20' CC, 150 OptiMax (HEAVY), 2 batteries in front of the console, rear baitwell.

Thanks again, folks.