Ideal Dual-Bilge set up for 20' Seafari

Wildman · #1 09-08-2011, 06:41 PM

Something like this came up a little while ago on THT. GO without using a float switch if you can. The highwater alarm is what see on big commercial boats and thats what will be in my boat.

Just an FYI: I put Johnson over Rule any day. I run 2 of their 'big' pumps.

http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-...ter-alarm.html

Max_Florida · #2 09-08-2011, 09:10 PM

An electronic switch? Water Witch seems to be the best one.

I found this thread on another forum regarding bilge pumps: http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-m...-switch-2.html

the first post at the top of the page has what seems like good advice. He recommends using an electronic switch and running it to an automotive relay to prevent a short circuit.

Another article I read suggested using a smaller pump as the primary, and then mounting a larger pump higher, to handle emergencies. I was thinking about also wiring in a buzzer to this larger pump.

Caymanboy · #3 09-09-2011, 07:37 AM

I run two switches and pumps. Not sure where the info on Rule is coming (I think they moved to Mexico) but from what I have seen, it doesn't matter what pump you put in, they all go bad at some point and Rule seems to hang in there with the rest, most of the time, space dictates what goes in.
What I do care about is the switches, I use Ultra Safety System switches, they come in 3 different configs, one config has a built in high water alarm, the swicthes are expensive, but they last, and the last thing I want to do is root around some bilge every year.
I also run two different size pumps, mount same height, the smaller one handles the everyday load, then the bigger one kicks in if need be, you replace the smaller one more often and is cheaper. Just make sure the smaller pump is 1100gph and has an 1 1/8 discharge. Besides, if all goes to hell in a hand basket, there is not much difference between 3000 gph or 4000. You take on that much water, you're going down anyway.
Wire each pump (seperatly) on the auto side directly to each battery on the switch (with a fuse), and the maunal side to switches on the dash.
I am not fond of anything automotive on boats, and auto reset relays or push breakers are worse, there is no way of shutting things down if they short circuit other than disconnecting them.

Caymanboy · #4 09-09-2011, 07:41 AM

One other note.
Why mount one pump higher? If you have that much water that the lower pump can't handle, and you need the second pump, when (if) the first (lower) pump fails, then you have that much extra water to deal with. If you want that scenerio, then you need three (3) pumps, which means you need a bigger boat.

Just my 2c.

dbiscayne · #5 09-09-2011, 09:16 AM

one pump higher than the other applies to auto pumps, if they were both std./manual pumps then both in the same area with float switches at different heights in the bilge so you're only using the smaller pump to get the little bit of water out if you happen to have a wet bilge - save your battery.

DonV · #6 09-09-2011, 11:08 AM

The reason mine are a differnt heights is the main pump, 1500gph with standard float switch, is just off the bottom of the hull and the float swith is mounted on an angled block to keep it parallel to the water line, plus both are as low in the hull as possible. The second pump is an 1100 gph automatic pump which is again mounted on an angled block to keep the pump parallel to the water. Due to room issues it's about 1" to 1.5" higher. So bottom line....if both pumps are pumping out water for an extended time I'm in deep poop.

Caymanboy · #7 09-09-2011, 11:19 AM

Let me clarify. By higher, I meant 6" or a ft apart or so. 1 1/2" won't make a difference with weight, but on large vessels such as ours, space is everything!!

FishStretcher · #8 05-13-2012, 08:58 AM

I am planning on two Rule #43 dash switches, one per pump- they have indicator lights. Because I have a dual battery system, I don't see why I should wire one to one battery and one to another. If I forget to swap from one battery to the other when charging, then I could lose one source of power for a bilge pump, but the manual switch can swap batteries anytime. It does mean that if the 300? amp switch dies, then I am stuck on one battery or worse. But that seems very very unlikely. Plus I have two alternators, one on the main, one on the kicker, so if the engine is running, then I should be good there, even if the battery is toast, but not a dead short.

I am about to cut the dash insert, so if there is some huge reason why I shouldn't have two switches for two pumps, I want to know.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Caymanboy

I run two switches and pumps. Not sure where the info on Rule is coming (I think they moved to Mexico) but from what I have seen, it doesn't matter what pump you put in, they all go bad at some point and Rule seems to hang in there with the rest, most of the time, space dictates what goes in.
<snip>.
Wire each pump (seperatly) on the auto side directly to each battery on the switch (with a fuse), and the maunal side to switches on the dash.
I am not fond of anything automotive on boats, and auto reset relays or push breakers are worse, there is no way of shutting things down if they short circuit other than disconnecting them.