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#1
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Are you going to be redoing decks?
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1976 Seacraft CC(Pilot House) Inboard Yanmar 315 1979 Septer I/O no power Sold ![]() |
#2
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Yes. They are solid and did not require tearing out. The original plan was to cover the interior deck and the top of the front consoles with a synthetic teak (NuTeak, PlasTeak, or similar), and I may still do this at some time in the future. The cost, with so many other things competing for my dollars, was too high for now, so these areas are being sprayed with a white/tan spatter finish gel coat, which hides minor flaws well and reduces fairing time.
I would be interested in hearing if anyone else has any experience or knowledge of those synthetic teak products.
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1974 23' Tsunami, fully refurbished, custom pilothouse, Hermco Bracket, 250 Etec 1977 23' Sceptre fully refurbished, soft top, I/O |
#3
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Cool, looking forward to the progress.
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May all your deadrise be variable. My 1973 SeaCraft 20SF Parker 2530 DVEC Boston Whaler 15 1984 |
#4
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looking at this brings back memories.
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#5
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I remember seeing your boat in the forum, and it gave me some ideas for my boat. That starboard side is a bit drafty for my needs!
Did you have any issues with water running forward and not draining out the back? |
#6
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After the first round of patching holes...
![]() ![]() Some people on this forum make things look so easy. For me, making a few hatches took a looong time and working with epoxy was a challenge. I messed up a LOT. I used some regular resin ONCE and while that boat factory smell excites me, it had the opposite effect on my wife. One disadvantage of a garage under a house! One of my boating fantasies was to be able to get to things easily for installations/servicing and have as much storage space as possible, so there are big hatches where the I/O engine used to be. ![]() ![]() |
#7
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Yeah if i didnt do the type of work i do i would have made both sides the same. No water drainage problem all the over spray seems to go the stern.
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