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#1
12-28-2011, 07:17 PM
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Great Job Alex
I have seen a bunch of these rebuilds and know where you are at.........forum member mark has been there on his old 20 (raising the deck and putting on a DF140) and Hermco should be able to weigh in too. Sounds like you are close to doing it. Glass lay-up looks solid and a 3/4 inch deck core was thick. Is the DF140 a done deal? I was wondering where all that black stuff came from. I plan on wet sanding my 88 18 this year. Let me know how that goes. That gel coat should handle the sanding well considering the thickness on both of our boats!
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Snookerd 
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#3
01-02-2012, 04:04 PM
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Quote:
The DF140 isn't a done deal, it just seems like the best motor for what ill be using the boat for (at least that's whats Ive started telling myself) Based on the gel coats I have worked on already (hatches and gunnel caps) the gel coat does seem to be laid on fairly heavy. The stringers have no hull separation and the hairline cracks seem to be just gelcoat. I'm pretty sure they're from trailering. Do you think I should put in 3/4" deck or just 1/2"? The last boat I rebuilt was foam filled skiff with a 1/2" deck glass on both sides and this seems plenty strong. The only reason why I'm considering a 1/2" deck is due to weight - the old deck I pulled out seemed extremely heavy. To be fair, there was a fair amount of class on each side and some of the wood was soaked. Went ahead and cut out the livewell also. Removed all the remaining deck material that was still attached to it, and sanded the flange down to an even thickness all around. Also, as a side note, the bedding compound tracker used to bond the deck to the stringers was VERY strong, and still pulled some of the mat off the underside of the deck when it was removed. I wouldn't mind using something similar again. The gap between the stringers and the deck varied from bow to stern. At the stern, the bedding compound was over 3/4" thick, while at the bow where the stringers end, it was only 1/4"-3/16" thick. Since I'll be raising the deck slightly, I figure I might as well raise the stringers to the correct height also. Not exactly sure how I want to tackle this. Originally thought I would build it up with plywood. OR once I remove all the foam from the stringers, Ill temp attach material to the left and right side of the stringers, at a height slightly lower than the underside of the new deck height. Once I pour in the foam, Ill trim the foam to the height of the temp material, remove the temp material, and lay new glass overtop to seal it all up. (not sure what frp is best for this application) Thoughts/ideas? Open to anything. Thanks, Alex. Last edited by alexh; 01-02-2012 at 04:07 PM.
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#4
01-07-2012, 02:40 PM
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Alex-Good idea about cutting out the in-deck live well. My 89 18 had it sealed up, and my 88 is still functional. I agree on the 1/2 core. I think you have to have your new deck rest on the old deck lip using it as a ledge, which will raise it slightly. Only other option which would keep the deck the same height is to glass blocks to the inside of the hull so the new deck rests on them and then glass the inside corner-sounds like too much work. The DF 140 on the 87 my parents have has greatly reduced their freeboard and required not only the deck drains plugged, but also the engine well plugs. 2 differences to your boat-1 it is lighter (SeaCraft Industries 18's weigh more than Tracker 18's)and can handle the extra weight noticeably better and your deck will now be lighter. If your set on the 140, you will love that motor. If I bought a new motor, the ETEC 115/130 would be my choice because it is slightly less weight, but for price and quality the 140 would be a close 2nd.
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Snookerd
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