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  #21  
Old 01-21-2012, 11:51 AM
abl1111 abl1111 is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: long island, ny
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I remember that seat you did. It's still is as mind-blowing as when I first saw it. Awhile ago, I mentioned to you I saw your boat in my Long Island waters - to a guy you sold it to. I noticed the beautiful hull, but when I saw the seat - I knew it was your boat !

Questions:

I'm not even going to bother asking about the foam shaping etc. Completely out of my comprehension... When you make a 'normal' radius with cabosil and after it kicks - are you worried about scratching up the mold when you try to smooth out the cabosil radius ?

I understand using the core cell for stiffness, but if I want to mount something to the seat box I want to build, should I use something STRONG, like plywood that can be mounted to ?
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  #22  
Old 01-21-2012, 10:02 PM
SBD SBD is offline
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Strick-here is a link...

http://www.bdoutdoors.com/forums/che...k-rebuild.html
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  #23  
Old 01-22-2012, 12:19 PM
strick strick is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abl1111 View Post
I remember that seat you did. It's still is as mind-blowing as when I first saw it. Awhile ago, I mentioned to you I saw your boat in my Long Island waters - to a guy you sold it to. I noticed the beautiful hull, but when I saw the seat - I knew it was your boat !

Questions:

I'm not even going to bother asking about the foam shaping etc. Completely out of my comprehension... When you make a 'normal' radius with cabosil and after it kicks - are you worried about scratching up the mold when you try to smooth out the cabosil radius ?

I understand using the core cell for stiffness, but if I want to mount something to the seat box I want to build, should I use something STRONG, like plywood that can be mounted to ?


That was probably the best boat I will ever own. But it was a little too big for getting into some of the tight places that I like to fish in the delta. The 20 is much better suited.

The core cell has a very high compressive strength. If you are worried about strength then throw a couple extra layers of 1708 down in key areas. What you are going to mount to a seat box that will create shear and compressive forces that can crack the laminate?

Cabosil alone is too hard to sand so it does not make a good material for fillets. Mixed with microballoons it is much easier to sand. If you are careful during application then you can keep your sanding down to a minimum and you will not scratch up the mold enough to effect it.

Sean thanks for the the link I'll check it out!

strick
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  #24  
Old 01-27-2012, 04:59 PM
kitebuz kitebuz is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2011
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The 3rd option is to pre-fab composite panels, then build your structure from them. Sort of a cross-over method between the plywood structure & molding - like Tuna did on classicmako - (p2, 03/29/2009 post).

http://www.classicmako.com/forum/top...08&whichpage=2

I've been thinking about these methods as well for a LP/LW combo (Strick - you set the benchmark w/ yours) & maybe a console or dog-house. I lean towards the mold I have to say - just not convinced I could get the glassed over seems to fair into the panels (or at least how much time it would take) vs pulling from a mold.
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  #25  
Old 01-27-2012, 10:03 PM
abl1111 abl1111 is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: long island, ny
Posts: 1,053
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That project is insane ! Talented people out there. Things you think are impossible just... get done !

An interesting concept - a guide coat. How does that work ?
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